My desire to have more of a “tank” top coincided when my desire to reduce the number of Under 2’s in my stash. So I pulled out a lovely knit purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics intending to pursue altering the pattern into a tank. The fabric is a crinkle cotton. I think the crinkle has been stabilized by a line of elastic sewn to the reverse side. It’s an interesting fabric that was easy to work with as well.
So at my age, you don’t go bra-less. If you do, people see your nip ples around knee level. Bad bra? Nip ples appear around the belly button. I keep the girls where they belong by regularly buying and wearing new bras (although I do mess up from time to time.) That means that even a tank pattern, needs to be bra-friendly. I rotary cut a copy of the existing pattern from fresh tracing paper to work with. I think the neckline width is pretty good so I measured 1.5″ from the shoulder point and made a mark. Using my curved ruler, I drew the armscye from the new point back down to the curve of the underarm. I did not lower the underarm. Sheesh, it took 2 versions to get it bra-friendly. I’m not ruining it now.
For me, the wonderful thing about TNT’s is that I can put my time into embellishments. So this Tank version isn’t quite a TNT, but it’s close enough that I felt like having a little fun. I went through my collection of graphics and found an interesting feather. I wish I could give credit for this but I saved the file with only date and time. There were 4 in the pic. I cropped to 1 feather and then imported into my Cameo Silhouette Studio program. I converted it to a cutting file, resized, repeated, mirrored and arranged. I spent at least an hour developing a design I wanted to use.
Then because it became a large design (12X18″) I moved the Cameo from its shelf in the computer room to the kitchen table. Previously I’ve ironed two layers of freezer paper together and put that into the Cameo for cutting on its shelf. That does work but not perfectly. There will be bubbles (no matter how hard I try to press evenly) between the two layers. When the Cameo cuts, the bubbles won’t cut cleanly. That won’t do for this design. It has to cut very well because it has lots of small dots and dashes and paisleys and stuff-that-needs-to-be-cut. On the shelf, the work receives minimal support. This would be fine if I could also use the mat. The length of mat needed, will not feed smoothly through during cutting. It bounces when it reaches the wall. At the table, this isn’t an issue. Since I was using the table, I could also use a mat and I only needed 1 layer of freezer paper.
But at the table I couldn’t connect the computer to the Cameo. I had the learning experience of transferring my design to SD card complicated by the fact my computer is not accessing its built-in SD-reader. I must use a USB adapter. The first USB adapter I tried was broken. How the heck do these things break? It would show up in File Explorer but then the computer couldn’t do a file copy. Eventually I changed readers. Another problem solved. Another appears. I haven’t previously transferred files to the Cameo using the SD card. I’d read about it — and forgotten the instructions. So I diddled at the Cameo for 15 minutes before I was able to figure out the menu selections I needed to load the file. Another problem solved …
and another appears. The cameo wouldn’t cut the freezer paper. 3 sheets of freezer paper later and I know to set the blade to a depth of 2.5. I learned that after running back to the computer changing software settings ; downloading the file; and cutting at the Cameo several times. I think I’ve got the procedure down, now. I love technology. To be truthful, I love this kind of plinking around convincing devices to do what I want.
Down to the sewing room with my stencil. I spread out my fabric and placed my altered pattern on top. I chalked the outline of my pattern pieces upon the fabric then cut out around the intended front allowing a good 4″ margin all around. I trimmed the stencil, still leaving a nice margin and sprayed the shiny side with stencil glue before carefully placing the stencil on the upper bodice. I smoothed it into place; dug out my white textile paint and a dabber. Painting took less then 5 minutes. Sheesh, all that work for 5 minutes of daubing up and down with a teaspoon of white paint. After clean up at the sink (I love acrylic paints) I removed the stencil from the fabric. Last time I stenciled, I left the stencil on while the paint dried. I also had a bit of a problem placing my stencil that time. I had sprayed it twice with glue after having tried to iron it into place. I still have bits of freezer paper on that project. Not wanting to repeat that experience, I carefully pulled the stencil away now before the paint was thoroughly dry. The design was beautiful. But a little flat looking. I had glitter handy. Not something I buy regularly. This came with some purchases made during the last Nebraska Junk Jaunt. I sprinkled glitter lightly over the paint. Then left all to dry.
The next day, I placed my pattern back on the fabric and cut the pieces for my new tank top. I taped the neckline back and front, the shoulder and the armscyes. Usually I tape the front neckline and back shoulders. But this was all so skinny I was afraid it would stretch if allowed to dangle without support. Before beginning construction, I cut strips 1.75, 1.5 and 1.25″ strips from the fabric. Using white Stretchy Max I roll hemmed one side. Then I serged shoulders together and finished the hems, armscyes and neckline using the type A, Up and over binding.
There is no real change it the fit. It’s all design details and whatever the fabric does.
Fit is fine, I’d say I can make the neckline wider and maybe the shoulder a little more exposed. But you know, I think It’s a great summer style.