I could have done more fitting. I didn’t because this ITY was fabric was difficult to work with. It acted like a nylon crepe. It was hard to keep the raw edges together for sewing. Hard to keep feeding evenly into the serger. Just a crawly, difficult to handle fabric. I’ve never had an ITY that behaved so poorly. I don’t know if it was the extra shiny finish or the gold micro dots but I wish I’d starched the life out of it just for construction.
I realized a lot of the drapes I was seeing below the bust were really due to the shoulder. It’s the voice of experience of what works on my body. I do think it odd that the shoulder causes the drapes near the hem, but that’s what happens to me. I used a 5/8″ SA on the left shoulder, 3/4″ on the right even though I only added 1/4″ SA to both. The 3/4″ deep SA is my quick, painless way of accommodating my asymmetrical shoulders.
I added 1/2″ SA to the side seams but since it was tight across the tummy at the first fitting, I stitched the final side seams with a 1/4″ SA. Somehow, there is now too much front ease.
I also trimmed off 1.5″ of length from the center front blending that to nothing at the front side seam. While the hem is definitely more even, the side pic above, shows I should still remove a little more.
I added a 15″ 3/8″-elastic stay across the back. Between that and the shoulder pads, I’m almost satisfied with the back view.
Almost? The shoulders are much wider than I expected. The red arrows show where the garments shoulder points are. The orange arrows are my shoulder pads which were placed 1″ inward. However, the back itself is fairly smooth, maybe even a little large? I’m guessing that the increased shoulder SA brought the waist and hip up just enough that I now have an excess of room at the waist and hip!
The cover stitch already had white thread so I hemmed with it. But I didn’t test first. Don’t remember what I cover stitched the last time, but this time the hems are standing a little proud. Well not a deal breaker.
My last complaint actually are the sleeves themselves. They feel tight. Probably because I didn’t add a seam allowance. My bad. But if they are too tight, why all the wrinkles?
One thing I’ve learned about cowls and drapes, they rarely just fall into place. I finished the cowl with FOE which I stretched a little. I was hoping to cause tension which would pull the cowl a little inside.
Just letting it ‘hang’
Had a clip handy in the sewing room:
Think I need to buy a few broaches or find fancier hair clips.