Category Archives: 2013/2-02 Knit PNS

The Knit PNS

Well that’s how I’m thinking of Style #2 Issue 2/2013, especially with all the changes I’m making.

I realized I had created a fitting issue by tracing various sizes.  I was tracing a size 38 across neck and shoulder and using my french curve to connect with the size 44 I need at the bust.  I need the narrowness across the shoulders, upper back and chest BUT I need the length of the size 44 between shoulder and bust.  By tracing the size 38 shoulder, I am shortening upper bodice too much.  The bust dart is too high and the armscye too small.  Interestingly enough, this did not occur with the early issues of Ottobre Design.  The first patterns I notice the difference is  2012. I don’t know if Otto made a change to their block. I’m suspecting that I just didn’t take note previously.  Whatever, I now know that I need to trace the 38 neck and shoulder width, but I need to trace it on the 44 line. So I’m tracing a 44 shoulder but it is only as long as the 38 shoulder.

I also shortened this pattern at the hem removing all the lovely rouching

Unfortunately with my figure the rouching was not lovely. It was fattening. I also trimmed 1/2″ from the sides.  The pattern has sort of a bubble shape. I’m trimming it to have more of a figure skimming shape as shown in the picture above. I did not trim across the hip, because the final fitting of the first Knit PNS was much too tight in that area:

I have to say, I thought when I finished the first it wasn’t that bad, needing only a little more tweaking .   Keep in mind that I claim 6+ decades at least 20 pounds more than my doctor permits me to weigh.

My fabric for this version is a cotton jersey.  It is light weight and was embroidered at the factory.  I knew it would drape a little better than the beefy knit above, but I wasn’t expecting quite this:

In my mind there is still too much ease across the mid torso, the waist.

While the back  seems to stretch a little across the hip, the front has entirely too much ease. This despite the fact that I have trace the back 1 size larger than the front. I also think the front is begging for a dart. I thought a knit would take care of this issue. The front is longer than the back, indicating that a front dart was built-in and not sewn.  I’m not one who abhors the bust drag lines. No indeed, having been small nearly concave in that area for most of my life, I’m pleased.

I’m not sure how much tweaking I will want to do. Just the difference in the fabrics made a difference in the final fit. I do think I still need less ease in the back at the waist; and less in the front at the hem. It’s something I need to think about before making any more changes to the pattern

This garment was sewn almost entirely at the serger.  I did baste together the major pieces to check fit and instead of serging at 1/4″  (my preferred seam allowance) I used the 3/8″ mark. I also basted the neck binding into place. It’s the only way I can accurately, 100%, every time, be sure that my neck binding will neither flop about nor strangle me.

You know, I like this. I think the pattern is close to TNT status.

2/2013 #2

The ruffles intriqued me at first. It was interesting that the designer chose to use ruffles in a free form method. But at the same time, it didn’t read artistic to me. It read ” How do I end this?”

Nonetheless I like the basic shape of the pattern It reminds me of one of my favorite Louise Cutting pattern, The Pure And Simple Top.  The PNS was designed for woven, non-stretch  fabrics. Otto 2013/2-02 was designed for jersey knits. As such it does not have a stitched bust dart and has less ease.  It is shaped thought the shoulders and armscyes. After I made my usual 1″ BWL and then trued the sides using my french curve, I had more of a bubble shape than the slenderizing shape of the PNS.  After tracing, I compared the tissue with the Jersey Tank pattern which was drafted for 50% stretch fabrics.  There was more ease across the tummy area but by the time you get to the hip, the ease is about the same.

My fabric is a red jersey knit with which I planned to use blue accents.   This jersey has a stretch of 25% but can stretch to 50% when pulled firmly.  Personally, I don’t want my knits to stretch in that fashion while worn.  So I added 1″ seam allowances to the sides but my normal 1/4″ to the shoulder, neckline and armscye. After cutting out the fabric, I also deepened the neckline about 2″.

Next I added the CS ruffle embellishment after spending  some time with both serger and CS testing settings to produced an effect I liked. I had planned to bind the neckline and armscyes. After seeing the ruffles I could only imagine horrible things happening with the binder.  This jersey,while heavier than the Pintuck Tank, still wants to curl towards the knit side.  I decided against binding the neckline. I serged the shoulders together, then basted the sides for the first trial.

I’m not unhappy with the first fit. Before you think I”m out of my mind, let me say that I understood when I compared the Otto Tank to this Extended Shoulder T, that the difference in fabric stretch could cause me issues.  I cut the fabric with 1″ seams and so glad that I did.

I’m not unhappy, because I was expecting these results.  The pattern was checked against a 50% stretch pattern.  The actual fabric has only 25% stretch.  The fabric should be slightly too tight and it is. I do like it when what I think should happen does.

My first impression is too tight under the arms, across the tummy in front and the but! in back.  But as I looked closer at the bottom third, I was just not happy. I checked the magazine and then called in DH for a 2nd opinion.   Even in the magazine the garment has drag lines extending to the underarms.  While that’s the way it is drafted, I’m not sure that’s the look I want.  The bottom third is designed so that the hem will be lifted up around hip level and the fabric will stack up in folds from hem upwards.  But this just wasn’t a good look on me.  Even DH disliked it.

I finished the neckline and armscyes with 1-3/4 binding, folded in-half and serged to the garment sections.  Then I stitched the side seams 1/4″ wider than basted. (Seams were based on the original stitching line)  Finally I trimmed 3.5″ from the bottom of the garment and hemmed it 1″. And the final fit:

I”m happy to note that my tummy is not clearly outlined. There are still some issues with in the back which I think are,, interesting.  The sides clearly curve in an outward arc.  I’m not surprised at the excess flapping around in the middle of my back, it is the horizontal drag lines just above the hem I think are odd.  I traced the hip a full size larger than my own and then added another 1/2″ when sewing. To me there is clearly enough ease across my hips. I can measure it.  I think I’m chalking that up to fabric and continuing onward.  I don’t think the bubble shape is flattering for me.  I’ve already altered the tissue to reflect the new length and added side seam allowance.  But I think I want to reshape the side seams to be more along the shape of the PNS.  This is not really bad, IMO.  The frill in front is much more interesting that I thought it would be after I stitched all the rows of gathers.  Finishing made a huge difference.   I wouldn’t call this pattern a TNT.  More of a work in progress.