Well that’s how I’m thinking of Style #2 Issue 2/2013, especially with all the changes I’m making.
I realized I had created a fitting issue by tracing various sizes. I was tracing a size 38 across neck and shoulder and using my french curve to connect with the size 44 I need at the bust. I need the narrowness across the shoulders, upper back and chest BUT I need the length of the size 44 between shoulder and bust. By tracing the size 38 shoulder, I am shortening upper bodice too much. The bust dart is too high and the armscye too small. Interestingly enough, this did not occur with the early issues of Ottobre Design. The first patterns I notice the difference is 2012. I don’t know if Otto made a change to their block. I’m suspecting that I just didn’t take note previously. Whatever, I now know that I need to trace the 38 neck and shoulder width, but I need to trace it on the 44 line. So I’m tracing a 44 shoulder but it is only as long as the 38 shoulder.
I also shortened this pattern at the hem removing all the lovely rouching
Unfortunately with my figure the rouching was not lovely. It was fattening. I also trimmed 1/2″ from the sides. The pattern has sort of a bubble shape. I’m trimming it to have more of a figure skimming shape as shown in the picture above. I did not trim across the hip, because the final fitting of the first Knit PNS was much too tight in that area:
I have to say, I thought when I finished the first it wasn’t that bad, needing only a little more tweaking . Keep in mind that I claim 6+ decades at least 20 pounds more than my doctor permits me to weigh.
My fabric for this version is a cotton jersey. It is light weight and was embroidered at the factory. I knew it would drape a little better than the beefy knit above, but I wasn’t expecting quite this:
In my mind there is still too much ease across the mid torso, the waist.
While the back seems to stretch a little across the hip, the front has entirely too much ease. This despite the fact that I have trace the back 1 size larger than the front. I also think the front is begging for a dart. I thought a knit would take care of this issue. The front is longer than the back, indicating that a front dart was built-in and not sewn. I’m not one who abhors the bust drag lines. No indeed, having been small nearly concave in that area for most of my life, I’m pleased.
I’m not sure how much tweaking I will want to do. Just the difference in the fabrics made a difference in the final fit. I do think I still need less ease in the back at the waist; and less in the front at the hem. It’s something I need to think about before making any more changes to the pattern
This garment was sewn almost entirely at the serger. I did baste together the major pieces to check fit and instead of serging at 1/4″ (my preferred seam allowance) I used the 3/8″ mark. I also basted the neck binding into place. It’s the only way I can accurately, 100%, every time, be sure that my neck binding will neither flop about nor strangle me.
You know, I like this. I think the pattern is close to TNT status.