Category Archives: 2012/5-04 Waterfall Cardigan

Style 4 Ottobre 5/2012

In the last 4 weeks, I’ve spent entirely too much time making pants muslins. I needed a palate cleanser. Something ease to do but rewarding.  I turned to my Ottobre magazines. Why?  Otto uses the same block, everytime. So the fitting changes I need for one garment will be the fitting changes I need for the next. Miraculously, most of the changes I need can be made during tracing. I trace a size 38 neckline and shoulder, blend the shoulder across 40 armscye and swing out to the 48 side.  At first I traced the bust waist and hip 3 different sizes. As I kept making Otto tops I realized that my body appreciated the extra ease across the back and tummy and I started tracing the same torso size from bust through hips.   I still must do the back waist length adjustment for Otto that I do on all patterns. That’s because all patterns are designed for the 5’6″ beauty and I’m 3″ shorter. Someday I plan to figure out how to make that change during tracing instead of after the fact. I traced  Style 4 Otto 5/2012 as usual:

I realized while tracing that this was going to be much longer than expected. I like Otto and have few complaints. Sometimes I do wish there were more photos of the finished garments. Style 4 was shown buckled and I’m not sure if it was cut shorter or the buckle made it shorter.  As drafted this pattern would be knee length.  I was wearing a vest at the time. I took the vest off, aligned shoulders and drew a line on the pattern 1″ below the vest hem. I folded the pattern up at that line.

I already knew the fabric I wanted to use. I’ve had it in my stash for several years. My fabric is either acrylic or acetate that’s been spun, and knitted into a lace.  The selvedges form a lovely scallop.  I placed the hems of all 4 pieces along the scallop edge.

I did lazy french seams. Wrong side together I serged the seams. Then carefully pressed seams together, apart and finally right sides together. I set the stitch length at 3.5 and made my final pass.  The back was cut on the fold, so no seam there to worry about. I felt the shoulder seams, which would be visible at the collar when worn, needed to be french seams both for strength and durability. But I have no idea why I followed though with french seams on the sides. A single serged seam would have been more than sufficient.

It was then I realized I needed to finish the long front seam and collar edge. I have no doubt if left on its own, this fabric would ravel unattractively. I checked the instructions which suggested a turn and stitch finish. I was appalled. I took a longish scrap and tested the turn and stitch finish. Not nearly as bad as I envisioned. From the right side, the finish is invisible:

From the wrong side, the turn and stitch is visible but the lace edge melds really well

.I’m showing my finished back view first because I think it’s excellent.

I think the back fits and is well proportioned. I like the feel of the front and the look, just not on me.  I think for me the garment should be longer to balance out all the fluff on top and perhaps the sleeves could be 1/2″ shorter:

 

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Even though I see room for improvement, I plan to wear this. It was always intended to be a lacy cardigan worn chiefly around the house.  I’m glad to have it finished and yes it was excellent for rejuvenating my mojo.  From tracing to pictures about 3 hours elapsed. No ripping, just a little testing along the way. Great pattern and yes I’d recommend it to anyone else.