Category Archives: 2009/2-05 Waterfall Neck with Easy Facing

2/2009 #5 for the Spring 6PAC

This is my 2nd top and 5th garment in the black spring 6PAC.

Finally a welcome relief of color.  The fabric is an ITY knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I’ve sewn with ITY numerous times. It’s not my favorite fabric but has qualities I do like really well including that it is printed on the most beautiful colors and designs. Oh and it’s way more durable than a Rayon knit.

My garment feels comfortable. Looking it mirror it appears a close fit, but still fine, attractive even for a 60+ year old, pear-shaped, over-weight woman. To my surprise the camera shows that I’m about to burst the seams.

You can even see the moles on my back! Ack! Fortunately I”m most likely to wear it as in the first picture i.e. under a vest.

I chose to use a TNT patterbm the Waterfall blouse from Ottobre 2/2009 Style #5. Not only do I crave color but the project is beginning to wear me down. I do think my ennui comes from sewing garment after garment in basic styles and in basic black. My interest is in design lines, color and embellishment. To be truthful, I started this 6PAC with the attitude of “get it over with”.

I used the 3/4 sleeve because I like a 3/4 sleeve. I find this length of sleeve stays out of the dish water, out from underneath the bathroom faucet when washing hands and out of equipment such as knitting machines and er printers.  At the same time it is surprisingly attractive. Somehow the 3/4 length seems to help visually balance the top and bottom halves of my torso.

I also chose to use this pattern because I’ve tried twice to emulate the same neckline finish. I’m still not sure what I’m doing wrong. The directions are easy to follow and finish perfectly. Why couldn’t I do this with the PJ’s??

To make this version a little bit different from the previous, I rounded the hem. This garment was completely sewn at the serger and coverstitch. I did spend a little time at the ironing board; and I did use SAS to hold the hems in place until they were cover stitched.  If wouldn’t show this next photo except I want to show the beautiful fabric.

 

I need to review my “CheckPoints” and be sure I start checking the stretch of each and every knit fabric. Honestly, I could have gone up 2 sizes.

WaterFall Knit Top 2/2009-5

Originally published Dec 2, 2012
I admit to going bonkers over OttobreDesign. Partly this is because fitting is easy.  Fitting is easy because instead of altering tissue, basting the garment, and making more alterations, all fitting changes are made at the time I trace the garment.  I’ve found that by tracing size 38 neck and shoulders, 40 armscye and 46 side seams OttobreDesigns work.  I still need to make my 1″ back waist length adjustment after the tissue is traced and before cutting fabric.  This brings the waist and hip shaping of the pattern, designed for someone 5’5″, in line with my shaping, a person 5’3″.  With no more than that, I cut and started sewing Ottobre Design  2-2009 Style #5.

I’m really pretty pleased with the final result.

https://i1.wp.com/i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/sdBev/2012-11/GEDC0318.jpg

I’m using an old fabric.  It’s been in my stash for so long I can’t remember when purchased only that it was a Walmart find.  It is a very light weight waffle cloth in a synthetic fiber.  but not transparent.  It might be better for summer wear.  I used it now for 2 reasons.  1) I have so much of it.  2) it matches very well with the grouping of blues I removed from the stash about 2 weeks ago.   To be honest, as a flat fold fabric it looks rather cheap. But once sewn it made a terrific top.  It has the required stretch for this fitted top. Yes this Water Fall top is not a big shapeless bag.  The sides and back are shaped for the womanly figure.  Only the front drape contains extra ease.

https://i2.wp.com/i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/sdBev/2012-11/GEDC0320.jpg

I did have issues with the back neck facing.  It’s not a pattern issue but a fabric issue.  Even though the facing was interfaced, pressed and understitched it did not want to lie flat.  I twiddled with it some and decided that I needed to fix this.  It was a wonderful opportunity to use my new cover stitch machine.  I cover stitched from the top along the edge of the facing.  To do this, I fused the facing to the back first at the ironing board.  At the machine I felt the edge of the facing with my fingers and guided the foot so that it would stitch along the outside edge of the facing.  I confess I was not entirely successful on the inside but the outside looks rather nice.

Unfortunately I’m experiencing a little velcro butt in the photo.   The pants, Burda 2012-12-148 shared here  were constructed from a soft as velvet corduroy.  Yes the pants still need tweaking.  In this post I’m concerned about how the top was sewn and looks.

I compared the sleeve to Otto’s basic T and decided to add 1″ of ease.  I like how this feels on me but admit had this been slinky I would have kept the original draft.  It’s a matter of how comfortable I am NOT with a tight sleeve.