Category Archives: 2009/2-02 Boat Neckline

Otto 2/2009 Style 2

Originally published Dec 7, 2012
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…admittedly, my way.  I was inspired by a recent catalog arrival:

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I was surprised to see this hem style still popular but it had been updated with a large cowl-ish collar.  I recognized the basic lines immediately as being achievable with Ottobre Design 2/2009 Style #2

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I changed the length, taking out 2″, one above the waist and one below.  Otto tops are usually pretty shapely and I need the waist and hip shaping to fall 1″ higher than designed.

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I selected a 1X1 rib knit fabric in the peach color that I love the best.  This was a Walmart purchase.  I purchased yards and yards many years ago (at least 12) so I could keep the color in my wardrobe.  Unfortunately it’s mostly cotton. It stains, pills and generally looks bad in a season or two.  This is the last, for which I’m almost grateful, because now I can purchase more modern fiber mixes that do last longer.

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I traced the pattern in my usual sizes: 38 neck/shoulder; 40 armscye; 46 side seam.  I shortened as noted above and added 1″ ease to the sleeve–Otto likes narrower sleeves than I do.  I’m not sure why my sleeve is 3/4 and Otto shows a full length sleeve.  I did note on my pattern that this is a 3/4″ sleeve.  I can grab this sleeve for use on other Otto knit patterns or easily add length.  I’m surprised by not unhappy at the sleeve length.  I also filled in the neckline by 1″.  I’m very narrow shouldered and when I held the pattern up, the neckline ended right before my shoulder point.  I’m never comfortable with a neckline that wide and for winter I want a little coverage.  For my collar, I cut from fold to fold and 6″ wide.

I stabilised the shoulder and back neckline with fusible bias.  I stitch the shoulders and then draped the collar onto the neckline.  I first serged the collar to the neckline and then top stitched using my cover stitch machine.  I’m so looking forward the Christmas.  One of my “gifts” is the clear foot  which will help me align the beginning and end stitching as well as actually stitch in the ditch. But the cover stitching, however imperfect, will keep the seam to the inside which is needed with this large floppy collar.

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The entire garment was either serged or cover stitched.  It’s amazing at how fast a garment can be created with these two machines.  Of course it really does help to have a pattern which fits.  I spent no time struggling with fit.  I did drape the collar but only because previous attempts at measuring a neckline and cutting collars/facings/bindings have not been successful.

Critiques: This is not a slimming style for me. It does in fact reveal my tummy and hip to be quite large. I will always wear it similarly to the first picture with vest.  Whereas most Otto tops are shapely and suggest that I’m busty as well as possessing a waist (both are not true) this pattern shows my true shape.  The proportions might be better if I had not shortened the 2nd inch and because I can always cover that up, I think I will make this pattern a 2nd time just to check.  I also wish I’d made that collar wider. It doesn’t lie as well as the inspiration. In fact I had to work with it for several minutes just to get this.  I didn’t realize at the time that the neckline needed to be deeper, if I’m copying the inspiration.  That’s something to remember for future copying.

I’m not wild about this style but will wear the garment because I love the color.  I can see potential changes if I want to make the pattern again without making the exact same top.   And yes, I would recommend it for others.  My advice is to compare your measurments to the Ottobre chart and trace the size that corresponds to your measurements.  Most likely you’ll find yourself tracing multiple sizes.  That’s OK. It works for me.

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The Ottobre 2/2009 #2

Originally published Nov 26, 2012
My two WIPS, take thought and time.  While I mentally work through the issues and then execute solutions, I need something else to do.  My thoughts have returned to the OttobreDesign magazines.  I’ve now ordered and received all back issues.  I had to order one issue through Ebay.  That one issue was 3 times the cost of a back issue from EU. I confess to feeling like the newest Hari Krisna (I’ve forgotten how to spell that) or the newest Christian Convert.  I’m filled with zeal and enthusiasm for this magazine.  I think with good reason.  Just this week I was looking at a RTW catalog and realized that for all the garments which I would have purchased, I already had a pattern; an OttobreDesign pattern.  I’ve therefore decided to continue sewing with my OttobreDesign patterns for at least the next month.  I’m starting with Style # 2 From 2/2009

Sorry that’s bit small.  Something to do with scanning, cropping and uploading <shrug>.   I’ve seen similar designs in many places.  Just this week a catalog came to my house showcasing this version:

I definitely can see myself wearing it but I’ll need to make some minor changes to the pattern.  First the schematic above doesn’t show you how long the Ottobre style is.  I wear my T-shirts about mid-hip.  Just enough to completely skim past the tummy and bu tt bumps and about 2″ shorter than the catalog version.  The Ottobre is 4″ longer (5 including hem). I don’t like to wear my tops any longer than my vests.  I find the uneven hem lengths to be conflicting and objectionable rather than edgy.  Each to their own, so I will shorten my pattern.  I also know that the Ottobre neckline is slightly wider and of course does not include the collar piece at all.  I’ll fill the neckline in a little. I will not expect the collar to do the same.  Looking closely, I think the collar on the catalog version is supposed to fill in the neckline slightly.  To do so would require some interfacing and I’m not sure what else.  I don’t really want to invest a lot of thought and trial–my WIPS are still messing with my mind.  So I’ll change the neckline and collar.  My collar will lie a bit flatter.  Last issue I can see in advance is the sleeve.  Both the catalog and the Ottobre sleeve are very slim fitting.  I’m too uncomfortable with such a sleeve unless the fabric is slinky (4 way stretch).  I’ll be adding 1″ width to the sleeve pattern.  I haven’t selected my fabric, but I can always fold out the extra in the pattern.  It’s a bit more challenging to add extra once I’ve cut the sleeve.