Originally published Nov 9, 2012
and Ottober 5/2009
both contain patterns suitable for pan ties. I chose to use Otto 5/2009 because I already have the magazine and I wanted to compare it with KS2200. I’m using the bikini view in the upper left corner of the pic. I was in the process of making pan ties from the KS2200 patterns and thumbing through my Otto magazines to see what I wanted to make next when I spied the briefs pattern. What really caught my eye is that the pattern is drafted for knits with 30% stretch. MMMmmm I says. I’d altered the KS2200 pattern the best I could so that it would work with knits of lessor stretch. (KS2200 calls for 75% stretch fabrics). I wondered what the differences would be. I traced the pattern pieces and ADDED SEAM ALLOWANCES. (I made that in big letters because I want you to remember it.) I compared the two patterns. The fronts and crotches were pretty much the same. The join between the front and crotch is more curved in the KS pattern but not enough that I would think it was a big deal. The Otto back was 3″ wider, 1.5 ” on each side. I was anticipating having to slash and spread the KS pattern one more time for those 25% knits so I decided to try the Otto pattern.
Wouldn’t you know it, I had only enough scraps of 25% knits to make 1 pair of panties. I also have a 30% stretch, again only enough for 1 pantie. But I had numerous 75% stretch interlocks. I need panties and decided to use the interlocks anyway. After 3 pairs of panties, I ran out of the elastic I was using during the first trials, and so began using from a 2nd card. I sewed the 30% stretch knits exactly as cut, but the interlocks I stitched the side seams with a 5/8″ SA (1/4″ SA is the standard for pant ies).
I just zoomed through sewing them. Ended up with a whole pile. I have to say it. If I have to make panties, this is the way: Assembly Line Style. I serged all crotches to front and back; serged up the side seams. Converted to Coverstitch and added elastic to all legs and waistband. I made 7 pairs in about two hours which includes futzing around with pattern and pattern comparisons. Good Deal in my mind.
But wearing is the true test and I can already tell that several of these are going directly into the waste bin. Why? Well remember the “added seam allowances” ? I don’t think I read the instructions carefully enough. I don’t think I needed to add seam allowance. First the crotch is bunched up between my legs. Not the kind of thing you want to wear all day. Next that 2nd elastic is a bummer. It recovered fine when just stretched between my hands. But when applied to the fabric it stays stretched. I’m not sure if this is the type elastic it is or if the elastic is so old it’s no longer viable. Whatever the reason, I’ glad all of it is gone because I hate pant ies that won’t stay up.
I’ve marked my patterns carefully as to the pattern number and the stretch for which they are drafted. Normally I file all my patterns by pattern number. But I’ve filed these 3 all together (KS2200 for 75% stretch, KS 2200 for 50% stretch and Otto 5/2009 for 30% stretch). I want to be able to grab them and use the correct pattern with the correct stretch no matter what knit I’m facing at the time. I also removed the 3/8″ seam allowance from the Otto pattern. I’m ready to make pant ies anytime!
Oh one word of caution the bikini view, is not really bikini. It fits the same as the KS2200 which is; the waistline sits just below the natural waistline (which reduces bulk at the waistline and works really well with medium-rise jeans). The leg is like the commercial thigh high. It’s a very slimming look but still holds all of you inside KWIM?