Category Archives: 2007/5-02 Panties

Pile of Pan ties 5/2009-2

Originally published Nov 9, 2012

Ottobre 2/2011

and Ottober 5/2009

both contain patterns suitable for pan ties. I chose to use Otto 5/2009 because I already have the magazine and I wanted to compare it with KS2200.  I’m using the bikini view in the upper left corner of the pic.   I was in the process of making pan ties from the KS2200 patterns and thumbing through my Otto magazines to see what I wanted to make next when I spied the briefs pattern.  What really caught my eye is that the pattern is drafted for knits with 30% stretch.  MMMmmm I says. I’d altered the KS2200 pattern the best I could so that it would work with knits of lessor stretch.  (KS2200 calls for 75% stretch fabrics).  I wondered what the differences would be.  I traced the pattern pieces and ADDED SEAM ALLOWANCES.  (I made that in big letters because I want you to remember it.) I compared the two patterns.  The fronts and crotches were pretty much the same.  The join between the front and crotch is more curved in the KS pattern but not enough that I would think it was a big deal. The Otto back was 3″ wider, 1.5 ” on each side.  I was anticipating having to slash and spread the KS pattern one more time for those 25% knits so I decided to try the Otto pattern.

Wouldn’t you know it, I had only enough scraps of 25% knits to make 1 pair of panties.  I also have a 30% stretch, again only enough for 1 pantie.  But I had numerous 75% stretch interlocks.  I need panties and decided to use the interlocks anyway.  After 3 pairs of panties, I ran out of the elastic I was using during the first trials, and so began using from a 2nd card. I sewed the 30% stretch knits exactly as cut, but the interlocks I stitched the side seams with a 5/8″ SA (1/4″ SA is the standard for pant ies).

I just zoomed through sewing them.  Ended up with a whole pile.  I have to say it. If I have to make panties, this is the way: Assembly Line Style.  I serged all crotches to front and back; serged up the side seams. Converted to Coverstitch and added elastic to all legs and waistband. I made 7 pairs in about two hours which includes futzing around with pattern and pattern comparisons.  Good Deal in my mind.

But wearing is the true test and I can already tell that several of these are going directly into the waste bin.  Why?  Well remember the “added seam allowances” ?  I don’t think I read the instructions carefully enough.  I don’t think I needed to add seam allowance.  First the crotch is bunched up between my legs. Not the kind of thing you want to wear all day.  Next that 2nd elastic is a bummer.  It recovered fine when just stretched between my hands. But when applied to the fabric it stays stretched.  I’m not sure if this is the type elastic it is or if the elastic is so old it’s no longer viable.  Whatever the reason, I’ glad all of it is gone because I hate pant ies that won’t stay up.

I’ve marked my patterns carefully as to the pattern number and the stretch for which they are drafted. Normally I file all my patterns by pattern number. But I’ve filed these 3 all together (KS2200 for 75% stretch, KS 2200 for 50% stretch and Otto 5/2009 for 30% stretch).  I want to be able to grab them and use the correct pattern with the correct stretch no matter what knit I’m facing at the time. I also removed the 3/8″ seam allowance from the Otto pattern.  I’m ready to make pant ies anytime!

Oh one word of caution the bikini view, is not really bikini. It fits the same as the KS2200 which is;  the waistline sits just below the natural waistline (which reduces bulk at the waistline and works really well with medium-rise jeans).  The leg is like the commercial thigh high.  It’s a very slimming look but still holds all of you inside  KWIM?

 

 

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Otto 5/2007 Style 2

Originally published Oct 29, 2012
Officially the Muley Brown Collection is complete with this my 4th garment and 2nd top

My fabric is a stretch cotton I think from Fabricmartfabrics.com.  I made slight modifications to Style 2 in Otto 5/2007

 

The pattern for Style 2 is itself a slight change from Style 1. It uses the front, back, collar and facing from Style 1 but a different sleeve.  The sleeve as given is 3/4 length.  I intended this to be a winter blouse and wanted a full length sleeve.  I traced the sleeve pattern (40 armscye 46 width) and added 3″ in length.   I’m surprised that the sleeve fits closely.  I shouldn’t be.  I’m learning that a slim/close-fitting sleeve is Otto-normal.

I did not use the ties at the waist nor the hidden button placket.  I must have missed something because I wasn’t sure how to finish with the hidden button placket without having the same issues as Burda 2010-08-130.  I’ve worn that blouse a few times. Although I love it, buttoning is awkward.  I didn’t want to repeat the Burda experience so I completed the collar and front facing my way and stitched out 5 buttonholes.

I had a problem finding buttons. 5 buttons in the right color were the wrong size.  Of course I had large groups in the right size but wrong color. I settled upon a silver top button and 4 in a matching color but otherwise nondescript.  To tell the truth, I prefer the silver button and the next time I’m near buttons, I will be looking for replacements.

I didn’t do any basting or fitting. I took a leap of faith that the blouse would fit me since I had so recently completed Style 1 the Vintage Blouse on which this is based. It was a leap of faith, because I’ve somehow lost the pieces to the Vintage Blouse and had to retrace all.  I traced 38 shoulde,r 40 armscye and 46 side seam. For once I feel like I won. The blouse fits wonderfully.

The sleeve ties create a ruching effect on the center of the sleeve at the hem.  I don’t think of Ottobre magazine as being fashion forward. Yet this blouse with this detail was available somewhere around May of 2007.  Ruching is now the rage. It wasn’t then.  Ruching is added sometimes to the most horrible places.  But ruching along the center of the sleeve is very tasteful.  The way it is achieved with an inside facing/channel and cording is a nice change.  Those ties (cording) just begged me for some kind of doodad on the end.  However, the ties would not insert into most of my doodads.  The ties were formed by cutting a 1.5″ strip of moleskin fabric (left over from the coordinating pants) and folding it vertically as if it were bias tape. I really struggled to insert the ties.  I finally used a large beader, inserted into the bead (which BTW had a very large opening) and then grabbing just the tip of the tie and pulling both through.  Even then it was a struggle.

But I got it done.  I knew when selecting the beads, I wanted beads with a large opening.   I collect these when I can find them, right now there is quite a few on the market.  They are not exactly cheap.  The last 9 beads I bought cost $8 on close-out.  I had several to choose from, but not 4 matching beads in colors which coordinated with my blouse.  I choose a wooden bead in a dark finish and a black ceramic bead.  I’m praying these make it through the wash because I’m not removing and replacing them at each laundering.

Although the beads are tight on the tie, I was concerned that they would gradually slid downwards and eventually off.  I started to knot the end of the tie below the bead, but frankly, that was large and rather gross looking.  I chose instead to stitch 4 matching silver doodads, one on each end of the tie.

The white dots are straight pins holding the ties into position for the picture.

I think this will hold. I also wanted to share a picture of the back

I stitched all the darts (shoulder and vertical) in the back but only stitched the horizontal front darts. My tummy needs the room. Conversely the back view is the only view from which I have an actual waist. I thought it a good idea to highlight.

 

One last comment on those ties.  I like the ruching. I like the ties. I like the beads and doodads.  But the first time they are dipped into the toilet, they’ll be replaced. Sometimes fashion has details that look great but just aren’t real life wearable.