Last but certainly not least, how well does the Vintage Blouse fit me?
The fit is hard to judge because of this microfiber fabric and the weather. Not only are we enjoying unprecedented cold temperatures we’re also enduring high static levels. But it is what it is, so lets take a look at the back
I can assure you that is velcro butt not a sway back. The microfiber though slick and silky to the hand has a slight nap. Added to the static of the season and the blouse is clinging and creating many more folds and lines than any other smaller version of the pattern. I carefully checked the ease during fitting. After the previous version, I added a scant 1/4″ to the center back and the collar’s center back. I like that this blouse fits smoothly across the shoulders and upper back. I rather think the back fits that the true issue is static cling. I will not be making changes to the back pattern piece.
However, I think the front is going to need some adjustments.
It’s not just static cling at work here. The issues are even more apparent when viewed from the side.
The blouse is developing the same swag like draping under the armscye that I objected to in Otto’s Perfect Blouse. I was unable to remove the wrinkles of that blouse and therefore never wore it. Because in winter I usually wear a 3rd layer (vest) this blouse will get worn. The 3rd layer gives me the extra bit of warmth that I need and cover up most of the fit problems.
This will also give me time to observe the blouse and think about what is causing the drape. The shoulders and high chest fit smoothly and comfortably. On the front, I use the horizontal bust dart but not the vertical waist dart. I don’t have a visible waist in front. I could stitch a pintuck and call it a faux dart but it wouldn’t be contributing to fit.
I’m a believer in fixing the obvious so…
While I seem to have enough ease around my tummy, the front is not long enough. I need to add length at the center front. I guessing 3/4″. The rising hem is pretty obvious; also the flaring forward. But I’m not sure why it’s flaring forward. I’ll check the side seam and make sure that from hip to hem to vertical and not angled. I didn’t take a picture of the side seam so I can’t tell if it is leaning or if the pulls originate at the seam line. It could be that I need to add to the seam line. The blouse definitely seems to have more front than back whilst I know I am more back than front.
From the side it almost looks as if a larger bust dart is needed. If I take up more in the dart (which is already 1″ deep) I’ll need to add more length to the side seam.
Fortunately, because it’s winter, any blouses I make will be wearable. I can take my time tweaking blouse after blouse, until I get it right.
For the next version:
- Add 3/4″ length to center front
- Ensure side seam from hip to hem is vertical.
- Measure at hip level. Back should be larger