2/2016 #16

I like the looks of Peplum Wrap Blouse. Meant to make it earlier in the year.   It gives me a very feminine vibe. I’ve decided to use a navy,  cotton, floral-print fabric. That cotton might have some poly in it.  The fabric presses beautifully-(cotton) and resists wrinkles (polyester). I’m not going to give it a burn test. Confirming my assumption would make no difference in my sewing choices. However I do have a problem because it has no stretch whereas the #16 2/2016 pattern suggests fabrics with 10% stretch. I know from experience that 10% isn’t much during wear.  It’s just enough the fabric will recover from a deep breath or mild physical movement (i.e. don’t expect it to perform well at the gym but you’ll look great lunchin’ with the ladies..)

Looking at both the schematic and models,

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I think this is my basic block with a few changes.It has a center back seam. Front is cut on a fold. The bodice is separated around the waist, I think maybe just above. The front has a V neckline. The  back neckline is not shown on the models. I’m guessing from the schematic that it is scooped a little and until just now I didn’t see that the back darts had been moved to the neckline.  The blouse bottom is formed into peplums. The has a little flouncing has been added to the peplums and  front forms an overlap. The hems are mitered at CF.   The sleeve appears to standard 3/4″ length.

After that evaluation, I decided not to trace all the pattern pieces.  I rarely trace facings (pieces 6 and 7) because after I make my fitting changes, facings have to be redrafted. Since this pattern appears to be a basic block, I opted not to trace pieces 1, 2 or 3 either. Instead I quickly cut copies of my basic block which is  drafted for woven -non-stretch fabrics. That eliminates my first worry (voiced in Para 1) of choosing a non-stretch fabric when the pattern suggests 10% stretch. Copying my block also eliminates all the fitting issues. It already has my shoulder slope; my front length, my back waist length; and all the circumference I like to wear. I did copy pieces 4 and 5 the peplums.  They are 7″ deep including the 1″ hem.  I added 1/4″ SA to the hems (I prefer a 1.25″ hem); 1/4″ SA to the top of the Peplum and 1/2″ to the side seams. After tracing the peplums I drew a stitching line 7″  above my block’s  hem edge and a cutting line 1/4″ below that. Slashed and trashed the tissue below the cutting line.    After walking the stitching lines of block to peplum, I increased the peplums length  3.5″. That’s a lot. More even then the biggest pattern size Otto included. OK part of that is the difference between stretch and non-stretch fabrics  but that’s still a lot more circumference than the largest size of the original pattern.

My sleeve block already has my 3 favorite lengths marked on it. So when I cut a copy of it, I folded up at the 3/4 length line and added  1.25″ for my standard hem depth.

For necklines, I eyeballed the pattern pieces and opted for a 1″ deeper back and 6″ deep from V both options I change when cutting fabric.

The problem with all my assumptions is that I may miss subtle drafting choices. They may have drafted the back neckline 3/4″ deep and the front 5″.  That change I’m OK with as I’m using favorites which became favorites because they look good on me. It’s quite possible that at the first fitting, I would change whatever they drafted to my favorites. I’m not so confident about just slashing off the amount of the peplum from the bottom of my block. I may have significantly disrupted proportions. These kind of things are why  I would prefer to trace  the original  and apply a standard number of changes. That way I would know I have only changed the pattern for fit and all the choices the designer made  –which gives their creation its unique character and appeal — would still be intact. There’s a strong possibility that with my choice to start with my block and make minor changes, that I’m really sewing a different design which is not what I wanted.

Let’s take a look.  The Schematic

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Pics of my finished pattern pieces

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