Tank as Camisole

I’m eager to start using my Otto patterns again.  They too need to be refit because of my changed shoulder slope and of course the asymmetrical thingy.  I also still need camisoles. 5 is good but still short of my ideal 8. I chose to work with 2/2007 #1, a tank top  pattern for rayon jersey. Far to cold for me to be wearing tanks but I could work on the fit now if I wore the resulting garment as a camisole.

Fitting has become a much longer process. First I compare the given measurements of the body to mine and selected size 46. Otto provides a lot more measurements. Which is a relief, I knew without a doubt I needed to make a 1.75″ back waist length adjustment (BWL) instead of my standard 1″.   I then measured the pattern across the bust, waist and hips. To my surprise, this pattern has  negative ease .  From the pic in the magazine (above) I did not suspect negative ease! I rarely like to wear negative ease.  My ideal silhouette skims not hugs the curves. So I added 1/2″ at the pattern side to bring it up to ZERO ease and then 1/4″ all around for seam allowances.

I did not add embroidery or other embellishment. Well, outside the shell hemming on neckline, armscyes and hem.

I love the shell hem. It’s so easy.  I do serge the raw edges first which helps me turn the edge a consistent 1/4″

This is one of those garments I’m unlikely to ‘model’ for you. It is a nylon tricot knit. Standard fabric for slips and camisoles but kind of transparent.   I was really anxious about the fit and have already worn the cami. Nylon tricot has a more stretch than rayon jersey so I expected it to be comfortable. I did not expect the ease I experienced. I added ease to the pattern to bring the final garment up to ZERO ease.  On the pattern I trimmed 1/2″ off the front underarm and 1/4″ at CF. Both are wedge trims which taper to nothing a few inches down.  That’s all the changes I will make for a camisole.

For a tank top, I’ll need to consider a few other things.

  • I’m still not sure that the ease is correct.
  • I’m hoping that the depth of the armscye changes when using the recommended rayon jersey because it is far too deep for a wearable tank top. Maybe adding binding to fill in??
  • I want another 2″ length to wear in public. Maybe more if I’m altering the length of the straps.
  • I made no allowances for shoulder slope or length.  That will have to be addressed for a public garment.

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