I haven’t used this lovely Raglan Pattern since almost this time last year.
I’m not really sure why I haven’t used it more. I do approach raglan lines carefully. I need an upright almost vertical raglan. The most common raglan is very horizontal and tends to both visually shorten and emphasize my pear shape. Just what everyone wants, right? Everyone would die to look shorter, fatter, and less bosomy. But Otto has this one right, for me at least.
I choose this rayon knit because it was lovely. I can’t remember where I purchased it. Since I hadn’t sewn the pattern in a year’s time, I also wanted to check fit. Too often, patterns which fit last year, don’t this year.
While I love this print, I think it has a muted romanticism, it’s hard to tell whether the garment fits or not. The top does feel comfortable, I might want to lengthen the sleeve another inch. After much twiddling with photo controls, I’ve decided that if there are any drag lines, they are slight enough to be ignored. I’m calling this a TNT.
I watch Nancy Zieman most Saturday mornings. The exceptions are when PB decides to show something else or messes up the broadcast. One of 2013 productions was a series of easy changes for T-shirts called Knock out Knits
I bought the book only. Honestly I don’t want to watch video for 30 minutes just to get to the point of how-to. I chose to use her idea of a front flounce:
I made several changes to her instructions her flounces. When I use her other instructions I’ll probably make changes to all of them too.
She suggests numerous ways to gather the ruffle or even to switch to a real flounce (cut from circles). I however attached the shirring foot to my HV Ruby. I played with it a bit. I knew I didn’t want tight gathers. I’ve had gathers with lots volume and definitely didn’t want to wear that on my chest. I achieved the volume I desired by just putting my finger down on the excess threads. Opps, that didn’t impart any real information. Let me try again. Before inserting the fabric and lowering the foot, I pulled about 2″ excess thread from the needle and bobbin. I inserted the fabric, lowered the fabric and put my fingers on the threads. I was just holding the threads in place. As the fabric was shirred, I had to move my hand backwards to keep an even tension on the work.
I don’t like unfinished edges. I made a serged rolled hem while stitches the edge slightly. I cut my flounces to 3″ wide, 6″ long and folded the short ends under 1/2″. I used Steam A Seam to hold the short ends in place. I’ll probably regret not stitching them permanently. I attached the flounces using a utility stitch that takes 2 small forward stitches then a long stitch to one side another 2 small forward stitches; then another long stitch to the other side and repeat. It’s slow but it both attached and finished those edges.
The topmost flounce is held in place and finished by the binding. I used a 1.75″ strip folded to 3/4″ and then applied to the neckline with a 1/4″ SA. I applied the binding using my favorite procedure which is baste to the neckline, check the position and look; then join the ends using the quilter’s miter. At this point, I often switch to the cover stitch machine which will top-stitch, finish the binding edge and permanently attach the binding all in one go. Because of the flounces, I chose to miter the ends, then serge the neckline and binding and finally top-stitch. I didn’t think I would like the top flounce to have two rows of stitching. Whereas I am happy with the actual final result.
I’m happy with the final result. The flounces are much more apparent IRL however they lay nicely against the chest. The fabric did surprise me. I thought it would coordinate with a multiple of colors. I have blue pants and brown pants in exactly the same blues and browns in the print. However when I try them together with the blouse, they just look wrong. This fabric is best paired with my black pants, dark grey or dark navy. Fortunately, I have 3 wearable pairs of pants that do work with this print.
Oh and now that I’ve pulled the pattern out and checked the fabric, I’ve got other ideas!