Monthly Archives: October 2013

Faced Waist Pants, Style 2 5/2013

Dang, forgot the final pics.  I did finish these pants.  Had a major goof.  I traced a copy of my MSS pant pattern then copied this pattern on top. Not that hard to do.  I was interested in keeping the crotch and ease of the MSS pant but adopting the waistline and leg of  these.  The legs were  the same.  I noted side seam height was the same but the waistline dipped down to CF and CB.  Then since I noticed that the Yogastein pants still needed more back ease,  I added 1″ ease to the back side seam.   Then I laid out and cut my fabric.  End of sewing session.

As often happens it was 2 days before I was able to return. I started basting the pieces together immediately. Normal for me is to permanently stitch the pockets and zipper but baste with Water Soluble Thread (WST) the remaining seams before trying on the first time.  To my horror the waist was humongous.  I added darts. Stitched the side seams deeper and deeper. Added more darts.  I was unable to tighten up the waist satisfactorily before that sewing session ended.

But overnight I remembered I had added the 1″ to the back side seam but not subtracted it from the front.  Next sewing session I offset from and back side seams by 1″.  Now I had to let out the darts, all except 6 – 2 front and 4- back.  It is not unusual for me to need 4 back darts and frequently I eliminate the front darts and ease the pant to the waistband.  There is much difference between my rear and waist but not that much between tummy and waist.

I was pleased that the pant now fit around my torso but dismayed by the waistline placement.  It was at least 5″ below my waist in roller coaster fashion.  I mean it dipped in front, rose to the side seam, dipped again in back and rose again to the next side seam.  Also, there were terrible diagonal below my but!.  For cryin’ out loud, the reason for copying the MSS crotch was so that I wouldn’t have those diagonals!  I remembered that when taking the pictures, I would unconsciously pull-up on the sides Immediately realizing what I had done,  I smoothed the pant downward.  While my actions may have contributed to the roller-coaster effect, it wasn’t the sole cause.  Remember, in the first paragraph I mentioned that I had noted how the waistline slanted downward from the side seam?  I think that is the major culprit.

It was time to be honest with myself.  I was never going to wear those pants with the waistline 5″ below my natural waist.  I much prefer a waistline 3/4″ to 1.5″ below my natural waistline.  1.5 is pushing my limits.  So I started scooping the crotch. Only, I didn’t just scoop the back of the crotch, I scooped the whole thing and effectively lowered the entire crotch 2″.  Interestingly that was enough to bring the waistline up to about 1″ below the waist.  I also trimmed the waist from side-seam across the back to the other side seam 1/4″.  Between the two actions, the waistline leveled.

Then it hit me. I’d spent all this time creating a pant pattern I already had.  This pattern will get tossed, but only because of the previously existing pattern.

This is a good pattern. My problem was the initial addition of ease to the back and my strong preference for waistline placement.

Normally, I like to include pictures, but I was eager to begin the next pattern and didn’t take final pictures.  I hate to share the one of fitting in process because I’ll get comments meant to be helpful about things I’ve solved but didn’t show.  My guess is that people look at my pictures and ignore or barely skim my text.

 

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Style 2 Issue 5/2013

I’m adequately supplied with blue pants but would like more brown and black trousers not to mention a few new pair of jeans.  I’m not letting my disappointment with the Terrific Trousers impede my progress or dampen my enthuasiasm.  No indeed, I’ve started Ottobre Style 2 Issue 5/2013.

I’m unsure of the exact style the pattern will create.  From pictures and the description, I can’t tell if the waistband is at the natural waist, below or way below. There isn’t a yoke and the back pocket is squared.  The front pocket is slashed not the curve expected in jeans. The legs are jean slim or so I think. I can’t tell from pictures and description exactly what the draft is.  I do know that it does not have a waistband. What it has instead is a facing which folds to the inside.     It does have the standard Ottobre crotch which I’ve discovered doesn’t work with my own.

I’d prefer not to have another failure (Terrific Trouser) or even  nasty surprise, so I’ve pulled out my MSS pattern and compared.  In fact, I’m using a tracing of the MSS  onto which I’ve superimposed the crotch height, pockets and waist details.   I also wanted to tweak the MSS just a little more.  With the last franken-version (the yoga pant) I noted that the back was still 1″ too narrow.  The front OTOH was 1″ too wide.  The net ease was fine.  It was the slant of the side seam I wanted to correct.  I know I know.  Some people would say “leave well enough alone”. But that’s not me.  I know I can do better. Since I”m starting from scratch (almost) why not do better?

And there’s one other thing I’d like to explore.  I’d like to experiment with making the back crotch more upright.  I’m wondering if that would help with the under butt wrinkles with which  I always struggle.

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