The Raglin Cap Sleeve

This is such a relief after the failure of the Shirred Top I finished the neckline with the binding that makes for a more comfortable neckline depth. I think the neckline was as Otto designed. But my personal preference is usually something just a little more modest which I have achieved.  Before finishing the neckline, I realized why the fit was off.  Back when I was tracing the pattern pieces, I added 1″ seam allowances to the sleeves.  I trimmed that to 1/2″ when tissue fitting on my dress form.  Now I trimmed it back to the original draft.

I don’t think the front could get any better.  The fabric skims everything, my favorite fit.  I think a person actually looks slimmer when clothing does not reveal every curve. I’m happy to say that my contrast at center neckline and sleeve hems has offset the tendency of a raglan line to narrow my upper chest.   I didn’t realize that easing the sleeve to the bodice would create additional diagonals.  I saw them on Otto’s model, but didn’t think about the effect.  For me, this cap sleeve is a winner.

I trimmed 3″ from the length and tried the blouse on again. Well it was too much.  I mean that was the perfect length and I wanted a real hem. My solution was to add a 2″ folded (to 1″) band at the hem. I would prefer not to have the horizontal line at the hem but it doesn’t look bad.

With the sleeves and length altered the back falls into vertical folds instead of bunching up in the middle of the back.  It’s one of those things which I’m not sure if I should do anything or not. There is no side shaping to speak of; which means that designer did not plan for a fitted back.  Now it’s my choice, do I want to add some shaping with darts or side shaping, or accept this T-shirt like look?

I transferred two changes to the tissue.  I removed the excess seam allowance from the sleeves and I trimmed 2″ from the length. I think the pattern is good to go for next year.

Yes summer is winding down.  I’ll be able to wear this garment once or twice before putting away the hot weather wardrobe but the 2013 summer sewing is finished.

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4 responses to “The Raglin Cap Sleeve

  1. Looks good Bev! That pattern is a keeper, and will be very useful for next summer.

  2. I’d given up on raglan sleeves for myself because they always make my shoulders look extra slopey, but this looks great on you. I may have to try one more time, with some artful design details like you used. Also, gotta try the decorative stitching….lots of inspiration here. Thank you.

    • Rebecca, Raglan sleeves are very tricky. For a long time, I would have nothing to do with them. It’s only the last 3 years I’ve been able to evaluate and make them work for me.