Sleeveless Blouse Fitting

I don’t know that you recall, but during tracing of Otto 2006-02-04, I opted to trace both the side seam as given and the side seam of the nicely fitting Vintage Blouse because the Vintage Blouse front  was 2″ wider than this Sleeveless Blouse although the backs were virtually the same. I cut the fabric along the wider seam allowance; proceeded to embroider and now to fitting.

On the first fitting I offset the front and back along the seam line as given on the Sleeveless Blouse i.e. I sewed the blouse together on the originally drafted stitching lines.

The result is a fit that’s at least slightly too small everywhere as well as a back facing crept out-of-place and oddly folded. I look at the photo above and see so many issues, I don’t know where to start.  I started by topstitching the back facing along it’s lower edge between armscye and the finished embroidery. Then I stitched back and front together along the cut edges i.e. the side seam as given by the Vintage Blouse.

It’s like a miracle really. The bodice fits smoothly across the shoulders. the back is suffering with a little velcro butt which then pulls the front lower-half  and creates wrinkles there too. I’m not sure I’ll be able to fix the velcro butt issue.  The fabric is light weight, translucent, 100% cotton batiste. Lining the back isn’t really an option and because this is to be a cool summer blouse, definitely lining isn’t desirable. What kind of weights, my other known solution, would help without being visible or causing other problems?

The biggest issue now is the bubble of fabric forming in the armscye above the bust.  At least this  is fixable. I ripped the side seam from waist to armscye and offset the front only between those two points.  It’s like half a vertical-dart, taken only on the front half. Awkward, but produces the desired result.

I only made the alteration on  one side (the side with the lifted arm). While this greatly smooths that front bubble, I note with interest that the drape lines  under the arm as first seen on the Not Perfect Blouse  are at least faintly hinted. I’ll be honest, I’m not sure what is causing these.  The shoulder is now the same as the Vintage Blouse which does not have even a hint of these drag lines. The armscye has changed. It’s higher than either the Vintage Blouse of the Not Perfect Blouse.   I’m wondering if it’s a difference in fabric. The Vintage Blouse is a crisp cotton/poly while this is a light weight 100% cotton and the Not Perfect Blouse was a fine nylon knit.  In the last two, the fabrics with more drape, the drape lines are most evident.

I didn’t stay stitch the armscyes and fear that the remaining armscye bubble may be my fault.  When I make my pattern changes, I will trim the front tissue only by the 1.75″ that I offset the front and back pieces.  I’ll also trim the front tissue below the side-waist but only by about 1/4″.  I see the side seam leaning towards the back which might say that more ease is needed across the back; especially when you consider the mass of fabric still in the middle of my back. But my pattern has developed a Judi-Jetson feel with the front jutting outward at the hem.  For this blouse, I’ve extended the blouse front darts all the way through the hem 1/8″.  I can take in more where and if needed to remove this tendency. I’m anxious not to remove the needed ease for my tummy and just in case I really do need some extra ease across my rear, I would prefer a leaning side seam to a cupping under the butt or even greater wad of fabric in the middle of my back.

I’ll have final fit pictures and close-ups of the finished embroidery in the next post.




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