Style16 V2F3

Originally Published

Again V2F3 would mean Version 2 Fit #3 of Style 16 in Ottobre 5-2007.  In the third fitting I concentrated on fitting the crotch.  At one point I could not continue to ignore that the waistband was too large as were the sides after having been let out 1/4″.  I took the time to sew the sides seams 1/4″ deeper at the waist, tapering to just inside the previous stitching lines.  So a variable amount was changed on the side seams.  I also added the belt loops, but not the facing.  My facing is a woven jacquard which while it will look lovely is not up to repeated stitch and rip sessions during fitting.

I scooped the back crotch twice.  Understand that scooping the crotch is something that cannot be done timidly. Nor can you unscoop.  You must stitch and then trim fabric.  If you don’t trim the fabric the crotch will not reshape. But once trimmed, it’s gone.  Nonetheless, I know from experience that I need a big scoop.  I scooped a full 1/2″ the first time. I measured down in the crotch 1/2″ and drew a curve to reconnect center back,  crotch bottom and crotch front. I stitched, no I serged to the left of that curve. Serging removed the excess at the same times as the crotch was scooper. Oh and BTW before scooping the crotch, I serged the inseams thus replacing basting in that area too.

But 1/2″ was not enough.  I pulled out the newly fitting back crotch piece from TJ906.  I didn’t do this frivolously. I know that, despite other’s claims, a crotch cannot just be swapped from pattern to pattern.  There are multiple details which are set to determine a good fit from any particular draft.  Changing one detail can cause all the others to be off. A huge difference between this draft and TJ906 is not only the depth and hook but also that TJ906 has a very upright center back seam.  That upright center back seam works in conjuction with a 2-piece back leg, the hook shape and numerous other details. But I copied it. I didn’t feel that scooping 1/2″ had gotten me far enough fast enough. So I copied the always successful TJ906.  In doing so I largely but not completely straightened the center back curve of OttoStyle 16 as well as it’s hook.  And then I tried the pants on to take pics.

What I see preplexes me.

After scooping a full 1 inch, the butt on the right, “After using tJ906 Crotch” looks good. Cute even.  Hard to imagine it belongs to the same person who’s rear is on the left, titled “Before Scooping”.

It’s the wrinkles below that I still have issues with:

.The major wrinkles are all coming from the knees.  Yes there are still a few small wrinkles pointing to butt, however I have seen similar wrinkles disappear when the knee wrinkles are fixes.  It’s too late to fix the knee wrinkles. Yeah sorry. Those are fixed by adding at least 1/4″ to the inseam.

So is this a wadder?  Not to me.  The butt looks cute. Front and side look good. The pant will wrinkle some place as I move and most people won’t notice the other back leg wrinkles. Why?  Because they will be looking at my cute butt.  Verdict:  Finish the jeans.

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