Style 16 Version 2: Begins

Orignally Published 
I really want a jeans pattern for woven, non-stretch fabrics.  So after a few days off,  I began again to work on Style 16 from Ottobre 5-2007. I realized I had made several changes based upon my previous fitting experience that might not apply to Ottobre. I decided that I needed to abandon or at least set aside previous fitting rules and start from scratch.  Well, no start from the first muslin AKA V1.  My personal experience has been that I need to fit the garment starting from the point at which it hangs on my body.  Pants hang from the waistband wherever that sits on the body. These are positioned about an inch below my natural waistline.   The first thing I evaluated was the waistline at the side seam:

V1 Evaluating Fit at side and waist

I cropped the picture at the knee. The first thing I want you notice is the yellow arrow pointing to a diagonal line. Disregard the diagonal line. That’s because the leg is still too long.  I make my jeans too long initially because it always seems to me that jeans continue to shrink lengthwise for as long as I own the garment.  So pants are too long. They are puddling around the ankle building up excess which finally pushes up into the diagonal line at the knee. 

What’s important is the red dashed line.  It starts out rising fairly perpendicular at the knee  but slowly leans towards the back half until the waistband. At the waistband the side seam pulls sharply forward.  I’m expecting the forward pulling at the waistband. Most of my weight is being carried up front in my tummy.  What I didn’t expect was the side seam being pulled towards the back side.

So the first step in fitting V2 is adding additional ease to the back pants pattern.  I determined by measuring that if I traced the back a full size larger than the front, just shy of 3/4″ would be added to each back piece.  The back I traced the next larger size.  I shortened the legs so they would be the same as the front (which I did not retrace).

I’ll note that the tummy does not seem to be fitting well.  The photo above shows tightness across the tummy, a pocket facing that can’t stay inside (because it’s being pulled outside for additional ease) and a front view that’s positively frightening:

V1 Frightening Front View

The jean is not buttoned at the waistline which accounts for at least some of the gap.  Nonetheless, I think adding to the back is the best first step.  I think most of these issues will disappear if the back has enough room.

I also not address the back crotch:

V1 Back Crotch

It’s pretty ugly IMO, but until the waist and upper hip fit, I can’t be sure what is wrong I only think I have the solution. The easiest pants to fit me have all had a deep J or Fishhook crotch. The slim paren “)” used by the Big 4 and many of the independent’s always involves a frustratingly long process to fit; if indeed I am ever able to fit.  There is something very different about the “)” crotch draft that doesn’t work with my body. The Ottobre crotch is a bit different.  It’s not a J, L or ) shape. But it’s not exactly a C shape either.

Ottobre Style 16 Back

If you look closely you’ll see that the center back leans in a distinctly jeans fashion and very similar to a ski-jump.  The back crotch is long. It not a little nip taken out of the back.  Now we are looking at a woman’s pattern, so it’s intended to cover some grown up thighs and rear end. But the point is that’s not the J I’m looking for, but it’s not the little “)” that I won’t even fool with anymore.

I”m also not worried about the leg width.

V1 Large Legs

I stated a few posts back that they looked 4 sizes too large.  Too large for jeans that is.  They’d be fine in trousers.  The real issue here, is that I added 1.5″ ease in order to fit at the hip.  I will get back to slimming the legs just a bit, because I want jean style s@xy legs.  Oh and I’ll make sure the pattern reflects the alteration.

So my biggest concern to day, is to document the issues of V1 and plan what to do with V2.  I will be fitting  in this order:

1 Waistline

2 hip

3 back crotch

4 legs

…and I’ll be back.

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