Style 16 V3??

Originally published

I feel much more enthusiasm than the camera is catching!

I’m referring to this iteration of Ottobre 5-2007 Style 16 as Version 3 but really, I’m transferring the fit of V2 back to the tissue and then checking to be sure it works. I feel like this isn’t really a new version, just an affirmation of the previous. Thing is, as I’ve written repeatedly, I want this pattern.  I want a classic-jean pattern for non-stretch fabrics.  I want to know how to easily refit this pattern when I lose weight.  I may never use another Ottobre pant pattern. Why? Because the Ottobre crotch as drafted doesn’t fit my behind.  I also mention that I’m rather surprised that my 42″ butt requires a size 50/52 pattern. (Ouch-the vanity was pricked.)

For this version I traced the front size 50. Added the size 52 back inseam; added 3/4″ to the front waistband and pinched out 3/8″ just below the yoke seam on the length of the back leg. I also made my fly flap 1.5″ wide, but I did that for the other versions as well. I was unsure and debated with myself the pros and cons of which back crotch to use.  In the end, I did my best to line up TJ906 with Style 16 and trimmed the excess tissue.

I pinned both the newly cut crotch and the piece I removed to the wall before photoing so that I could show how different the final crotch is:

I’ve selected a heavy cotton velvet fabric.  It’s another fabric that I purchased thinking jacket but now realize I would have actual use if I make pants. I didn’t do a burn test, so I”m not sure this is 100% cotton.  It does have a lovely luster that suggests a bit of rayon or other synthetic.  I  chose this caramel color because it’s much easier to see  wrinkles during the photo examinations than my other options would be.

I’m not sharing pictures of the fitting.  Fitting was reduced to trying on and adjusting the waistline twice. After that it was stitching everything permanently.   During cutting I added 1/4″ to the  side seams only.  I serged the side seams then stitched at 1/2″. I also found the join at the crotch to be awkward. The back crotch needs to be reshaped slightly to produce a smooth crotch.  I’d also say that the waistband needs a little tweaking. It’s possible that I could make the jean closer fitting, at least in the leg. But you know what, I think this jean pattern is ready and officially nominated to TNT status.

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