Style 16 V2: Fabric and First Fitting

Originally published
My next fabric is a wide wale corduroy.  I think this is 6 wales to the inch.  It’s a soft rose brown originally purchased to make a jacket. But truth is, I’m not wearing many jackets. I also don’t have any pant fabrics that match this color.  I do have fabrics that will work well as tops paired with bottoms. So jeans style  it is.  My fabric is 100% cotton and has been washed once.

I’d like this to be a wearable muslin.  I mean V1 is wearable and once I add a vest, the only visible flaw in V1  is that the legs are too wide – which can be fixed.  To be sure I can use this as a wearable muslin, when I  cut the fabric I added 3/4″ to the side seams.  I don’t know exactly what size this translates to other than the size likely to fit me.

Already I can tell you the change in fit is AMAZING!

Version 2 First Fitting (V2F1)

The front and back pockets are permanently stitched as is the zipper. Everything else has been stitched together using my Viking Ruby’s basting stitch. If you’ve got to baste, this is the way to do it.  The default setting for the basting stitch covers ground quickly!  The pants are unhemmed but rolled up high.  I did not want the excess length affecting the hang of the pants.

I want to remind myself of the changes since V1. The yoke, waistband and entire back were traced one size larger than the front.  The legs have been shortened by almost 3 inches.  During cutting I added 3/4″ to the side seams.  During basting, I basted at the proposed seam line i.e. my side seams are 1″ deep all the rest are 1/4″.  I’m not sure why I chose to make these 1/4″.  I prefer a 3/8″ seam and when I convert this to a permanent pattern, I will change the seam allowances all to 3/8″.

The side is such a telling view, that I’m starting my evaluation of Version 2 Fitting 1 (V2F1) with the side view:

V2F1

BTW all these photos are clickable so that you can see larger more detailed versions. The orange line at the bottom of the leg traverses the folded up hem.  I topped it with a blue horizontal line and truthfully, I’m not paying attention to what happened within that area.  I noted that from the blue line up to about knee level there are breaks, maybe drag lines, along the side seam. Corduroy is a very firm fabric. The leg might have hung better had it been a softer fabric. The side seam (red line) is perpendicular from the knee up to almost the top of the waistband.  It angles forward slightly at the waistband.  I find this interesting because the waist band feels too loose. I have not stitched the facing at all.  It’s sitting in a pile on my cutting board.  I stay stitched the corduroy waistband, but did not tape it.  I’m  wondering if the stay stitching was enough i.e. did the waistband stretch just a bit; OR do I need to reduce the width of the waistband at the top only on the back OR when I add facings and belt loops will this issue go away?  Everything affects everything else. So at this point, I think I’ll just note this is still an issue.

I also added green arrows where I could see some drag lines.  The front still feels a little close across the belly. It maybe that I need a bit more ease in front. But there is also the green arrow in back where the yoke is bubbling up beneath the waistband. It would seem that the hip still wants a little more ease and is pushing the fabric upward.  I think the front view affirms that a bit more ease is required in front:

V2F1

This is something wonderful about photo editing software.  I’m using ACDSee which has limited editing capability.  I enjoy the most, the ability to draw  lines and arrows.  When I started drawing arrows on the front, I thought I might be seeing a too short front crotch. But when I finished drawing arrows, stepped back (so to speak) and looked at the big picture, I said “Dang. Looks just like the FFRP diagram of a prominent stomach. ” For this version, I will let out the side seams (remember I have two inches of ease to play with). But I will alter the pattern to add a front wedge between pant and fly. This wedge will also fix the pulling forward of the side seam.

Onto the back:

V2F1

I must say I’m not particularly surprised.  I really believed that the crotch shape of the pattern

View of Pattern Back Crotch

would not, could not fit my backside.  I’m not surprised to see the X wrinkles (blue crossing arrows reinforced by red angular arrows. I’m also not surprised that the fabric is trying to crawl in between my cheeks back there. This is not the crotch shape for me, but I had to be sure.  Had to be sure that the Ottobre pant draft didn’t do something spectacularly different that would work. OK so now I know.  But that’s not the next thing I will fix.

For the second fitting “here’s a what I’m a goin’ a do” (is it OK to quote a commercial from my youth? That’s where my quote comes from.)

Let out the side seams between knee and waist about 1/4″.  This will add tummy and hip ease. It may allow the back of the jean to drop into place, but it may not.

Make and attach belt loops– I often find that when I add my belt which holds my pants into place those back of the leg wrinkles just go away. But they may not.

Make and attach waistband facing.  The finished unit, waistband and facing, can affect the final hang of the garment. So finishing may have an affect upon the back wrinkles. but it may not.

Hem the pants, still folding up during the fit pictures for  evaluation. The jeans will be too long and will cause drag lines.  Drag lines that I can live with the first 6 months of wearing.

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