I’m really analytical and can get pretty bogged down in examining little nuances. I forget that people are reading my posts and making decisions based upon some of my comments. I doubt that you realize how excited I am about this pattern. Yes I’m really pleased and excited. Let me tell you why.
You probably don’t notice this but: There are NO diagonal lines on the back between knee and butt in any of the pictures I’ve posted. I can’t be sure that’s because I used my Burda fix (cutting the back inseam one size larger) or if it’s part of the Ottobre draft.
The waistband pattern is long enough that I easily created an underlap. I’m fond of underlaps. I don’t like sewing a button or hook/eye onto 1/4″ of fabric and hoping that’s enough to keep said button on the garment and not flying off into space. A big underlap means I have lots of space for attaching the button or I could attach a button and a hook/eye or even two hooks. With an underlap, I can get a real secure waist fastening.
The pattern is 2 pieces. You cut a back on the fold and then 2 fronts. I really like how this saves on fabric. Had I been using Jalie 2908 or TJ906 I would have needed another 1/2 yard of fabric. Because the waistband is drafted as 2 pieces, I was able to cut it from scraps that otherwise would have been discarded. I did carefully match grain lines. The fabric savings extends into the facing and the interfacings. I like to cut my facings (pocket and waistband) from a complementary fabric. It’s just a neat thing and I like to do it I cut interfacings for both my waistband and my facing. I use some expensive interfacing because it produces excellent garments. I dislike all the big left-over pieces which are unusable elsewhere. With this pattern, that’s not an issue. I like this so well that even if I can’t get the pattern to fit me, I’ll want to copy and use this waistband, at least as an alternative when fabric is lacking.
The finished jean should sit 3 cm ( or 1-ish inch) below the waistline. This takes it out of the “mom jeans” class while avoiding “muffin top” syndrome or exposure of flesh and crevices best kept unrevealed once the model is no longer youthful.
The pattern has all the classic jean styling. I didn’t trace or create the coin pocket or fly shield both of which are useless to me. (YMMV). I also didn’t make any effort to add brass studs anywhere and I’m perfectly happy with a matching blue button- which will covered by my belt-instead of brass tack that I never get firmly tacked together. I did make a keyhole buttonhole; my first ever. Now that’s a classic touch I’m perfectly happy to add. I used tone-on-tone machine embroidery instead of the classic tan/gold. I like what I did. It expresses my personality. It’s OK with me if you do something different or copy RTW exactly.
Finally, I really really really want a classic jean pattern for non-woven fabric. This is it! I’m so excited. I just got to make Style 16 work for me!