I’m trying out an Otto pant pattern sooner than I intended. I needed/wanted a jean pattern designed for non-stretch i.e. no Lycra content fabrics. Would you believe that in my size none of my Burda magazines had a jean pattern for non-stretch fabrics? But Ottobre does. I rather need this pattern. I have a number of fabrics in my stash which are suitable for pants but are not stretch fabrics. Either I donate them all or I find patterns that work. I can use my JSM pattern. I can use my TJ906 pattern but I wanted a classic jean option. I traced a size 46 everywhere except the back inseam. Like my Burda pants, I traced that one size larger, i.e. 48. The Otto pant has a deep curved back crotch. Like a backwards capital C. Unfortunately, my backside needs deep J crotch. So after tracing I scooped the tissue 3/8″ in the back crotch.
I’m using a 100% cotton twill. This is not the lightest fabric I’ve ever sewn with, but it’s certainly not like a 14.5 oz denim. I purchased many yards when Walmart had their $1 sales and I’ve used it over the years. I think I may be able to get one more pair of pants out of it, after this one.
I hesitated when cutting the fabric. I had good luck cutting the Ottobre Vintage Blouse using my size. But I know now from experience that I prefer more ease in my pants than most people. Also with the other European patterns I use, Burda Style, I find that I like to cut the size recommended for me up top, but prefer a size larger for pants. So when I cut the fabric, I cut the side seams with an extra 1/2″ or 3/4″ seam allowance. Everything is permanently stitched except the side seams, hems and waistband facing. Those places were basted together for my first try on.
I’m sharing the pics of the first try-on because I had commented to a couple of people that I would be trying this pattern. I know life is going to get busy and it may be a while before I finish these. I’d like to give those people I’ve spoken to some idea of how the Ottobre pants work for me. Lets look at the front first:
I’ll just admit that adding the 1/2″ to the seam allowances is going to be a good idea. They don’t feel tight, although the crotch feels a little short. Looking at the pics it’s obvious that I need more ease from waistline down to tummy. The legs seem a little large on my legs and I have the hems turned up 3″.
I’m using a slightly darker thread to do all my top stitching and the embroidery on the back pockets, a look I like. While the hem length may look perfect to me, I know from experience my 100% cottons will continue to shrink. I often discard jeans because they become too short long before they become too tight. At this fitting, I’m not sure if the crotch needs to be scooped more or if letting out the sides seams is going to cure-all ills. I calculated the waistband should sit about an inch to inch and a half below the natural waist. That happens to be the point I like jeans to sit at. Of course I could have done the math wrong, but once I let out the side seams not only will most of the horizontal drag lines go away, but the waist will drop and the crotch will (most likely) be in the right place as well. This will eliminate view of my cottage cheese behind, but not take care of the excess ease in the thigh. It may be that I did not need to cut the back inseam one side larger. Then again in the side view:
I’m seeing a repeat issue from the blouse. That of the back seeming to need a larger size than the front. The side seam is clearly pulled toward the back. I’m contemplating cutting my next Ottobre blouse a size 44 on the front and size 46 on the back. Looking at this pic, I think maybe I should cut Ottobre pants 46 in front and 48 in back. For this pair, I don’t think letting out only the back side seam is going to give me enough ease. But it is the first change I will make. The 2nd change is to let the hem down 1/2″.