Originally published Oct 17, 2012
from Otto 5/2008 Style #8. I”m really loving the Ottobre magazines. As I look through the women’s issues, I see garments I’ll actually wear. On top of that, once a style is fit there are tons of repeats with different styling details! I started by fitting the classic blouse, next the classic jean and then everybody’s favorite, the T Shirt. Yes the classic jean took 3 tries to get a TNT pattern. But compare that with the Kwik Sew pants patterns which have been banished because I could never fit them or the Big4 with so many wrinkles I don’t know where to start (not to mention a crotch shape that doesn’t fit anyone over the age of 12). I mean, 3 tries can be forgiven when it results in perfection.
I was ready to try some of the variations on the T-shirt which Otto seems to show in nearly every issue. The long-sleeve T-shirt paired with warm pants and a vest is my go-to outfit for the winter. OK I wear long sleeve T-shirts year round. If the temps drop in the summer, I grab a long-sleeve T-shirt and slip it on top. Many of my T-shirts are looking sad or no longer fit–that weight gain thing again. So I’m ready to ramp up the T-shirts when I spy a raglan T-shirt in the 5/2008 issue. I thought I should go ahead and refit this basic style now. I have to be careful with the raglan styling. I have narrow shoulders and some raglan sleeves, some color combinations make me look like child’s toy spinning top. So I have to be careful in how I use the raglan design on me.
2008/5 Style 8
I chose the 5/2008 because it was the simplest with only a single band at the neckline. I traced the 3 pieces using the same sizing as the T-shirt i.e. 38 neck, 40 shoulder/armscye (since they are combined in a Raglan, I chose the larger size), 46 side. One of the wonderful uses of a TNT is to quickly compare with a new unknown pattern. You just use corresponding pieces i.e. back with back, front with front, etc and place one on top of the other. I placed the back raglan on top of the back T-shirt and said “WHOA!”. I did the same with the front and sleeves. The sleeves had about the same width (as the unaltered T-shirt sleeve) but the back and the front were obviously much smaller. I knew at a glance that 1.5 to 2 inches of width would need to be added. My first thought, I didn’t trace the right sizes. So take out the master pattern sheet, smooth it out again and put the traced patterns on top. Holey Moley, I traced the right sizes. So then I thought “even though the schematics look the same, this version must be using lycra”. Nope the pattern guide calls for “150 cm viscose jersey”. So then I think I must not be understanding the directions because this raglan does not even come close to the same amount of ease contained in the T-shirt. I take my problem to like-minded souls at Stitchers Guild. A days worth of conversation and I now know:
Jersey knit is the same single knit cotton that I normally use in summer T-shirts
Interlock is that great double knit, usually cotton, that I like for winter T-shirts
Elastane is Lycra
Viscose is rayon not polyester.
And most importantly of all :
from Lisanne: “There are two issues I know of that each have a suite of T-shirts with interchangeable parts. I read somewhere – maybe in one of Sherril’s reviews – that one set has a closer fit than the other. Maybe you’re working from the issue with the more fitted T’s,….”
I re-traced my pattern size 40 neck, 42 shoulder/armscye and 50 side seams.
I’m using a rayon knit for the first version. I bought it when I was looking for interesting knits in basic colors (dark brown, navy and black). I wasn’t sure I liked it when viewing on the internet. It has a 60’s vibe that I didn’t like in the 60’s. But dark brown knits were in short supply and Fabric.com put it on sale, so I bought. I disliked it a bit more upon receipt but it survived the wash with nary an issue and so occupied a place on the Brown Shelf (I group my stash fabrics by color) for a few months. I wasn’t really enthused about it now but thought if this first version didn’t work out this was the best fabric to sacrifice.
It didn’t work out. I grouped 3 shots together so you can see the fabric well. I think the dark fabric “hides” some of the issues, so I also lightened each photo for discussion.
The neck and shoulder are too wide and the neckline too deep for me. I cut but didn’t apply a 1″ front band. I can see that it will really be needed and probably needs to be 1.25 to 1.50″ wide. Not really shown here is that I had problems sewing the armscye/shoulder seam. They didn’t match. The body feels comfortable and for that reason I’m surprised to see a tummy bulge. No it’s not a belt buckle this time. That’s definitely my belly. The arms were tight while going on, but was comfortable once in place. I’m surprised again at the wrinkles all up and down the underarm seams. The seam is flat when lying on the ironing board. If it feels comfortable, why is it wrinkling? Is it because the neckline is too wide and the garment is falling off my shoulders?
I made the 1″ BWL on both front and back. The garment is unhemmed.
Boy this fabric really make my shoulders look round!
Still I sort of expected the sway-back appearance. I’ve been seeing hints of this in all the blouses I’ve been making for my larger size. As little as 2 years ago I asked my doctor if I was developing a sway back. My back hurts more and more often. She insists that my back is fine, my weight is still to blame. She may be right because from the side
especially if I raise my arm
you see the ol’ booty sticking out, the hem is uneven (creeping upwards in center back) and the side seam veers towards the back on the lower half. I’m thinking that this pattern needs a size-52, back, side-seam.
I traced and dotted. Dithered. Retraced and dashed. Trying to decide what size to trace the raglan seam itself. My neck and shoulder really need the narrower size 38 but that’s just a bit tight in the armscye. The combined shoulder-armscye of the raglan had me confused. I think the upper issues are due to a combination of wrong size and tracing/veering-to the wrong lines. Now that I’ve decided what sizes would be best, I think I should retrace on completely fresh paper size 38 neck and 40 armscye.
Yes, there will be another version.