Interlock #3

Not sure this pattern is going to work for me. I wanted a basic knit, sleeveless top that I could vary neckline, hem and armscye details and finishes  but fit is not going too well. Maybe the issue is the cotton interlock fabric I’m using.  This being the last of my remnants and the 3rd attempt at fitting the pattern (now made 5 times because I made no fitting attempt for the camisoles), I’m quite certain that cotton interlock has limited usefulness.

I decided to play just a little and added trim to the front. I used FOE and some decorative elastics all purchased from Walmart.  I was surprised to find both those smaller trims at Walmart which is also stocking some FOE. Caution on the Walmart FOE. Yes it does seem to be good or at least reasonable quality but the quantity is small.  That is a full roll.  A single roll would not be enough to cover an adult neckline and armscye. I stacked the narrow elastic on top of the FOE and stitched the round elastic to either side of the FOE.  Makes for an interesting trim. I used the standard zig zag stitch, not even the 3 stitch, to attach the elastics. Had problems keeping the FOE straight. It wanted to wander beneath the foot. Possibly I should have used Steam A Seam to pre-attach it and the roll elastic because I also had a hard time keeping the roll elastic butted up next to the edge of the FOE. Also a possibility, I should go foot shopping. Our machines are designed for all around general purpose sewing. Sometimes a special foot is needed to adapt them for special sewing, like uncooperative elastics.

For some reason I thought the elastics would not ravel.  Therefore, I didn’t Frey Chek the edges. Well I had stabilized the front of the top with sticky WSS before beginning the trimming. WSS shrinks and changes shape rather rapidly.  Just the humidity, even winter humidity, is absorbed and causes the WSS to change shape. Get it near a steam iron and drastic, immediate change take place.  Before modeling, I needed to remove it all and I put my top  through a standard wash/dry cycle.  That’s when I found out these particular elastics do indeed ravel.  This top probably isn’t going to last long in my wardrobe because the raveling is definitely unattractive.

I planned to tweak the fit a bit as I have been seeing swags running from back, under the arm and up to the front or maybe it’s from front to back. Either way, the personal  solution I’ve  found is increasing the shoulder slope.  Before cutting this interlock, I increased the tissue’s shoulder slope 1/4″ at the armscye edge. That meant that the underarm would be or should have been too high and not long enough. So I also lowered the armscye 1/4″.

I did the embellishment first, then stitched the shoulders together before applying the trim. I basted the side seams and looked in the mirror. Nope. 1/4″ did not take care of the swags. Basted the shoulders another 1/4″ lower making a total of a 1/2″ increased slope. No and curiously no real improvement either. Finally I basted the shoulders with a total 3/4″ slope. What that got me was a lump at the shoulder seam neck edge and all the side swags. a3/4″ slope not the solution.

According the Connie Crawford, er according to my limited understanding of Connie Crawford, when correcting these swag lines, you work at the shoulder seam as long as that makes a difference, then you work at the side seam. Since working the shoulder seam had made no discernible difference, I ripped out the basting at the shoulder and  started increasing the side seam. Didn’t help. Instead I now had big drag lines indicating insufficient bust ease.

My last thought was to change the armscye finish.  I had planned a simple 1:1 binding. I decided instead to use a 1/2″ self-ribbing. However, when finished the shoulder would be too wide.So I trimmed the shoulder length 1/2″.  I cut my ribbing 1.75″ wide and 80% the armscye length. On this garment that was 16″.  Applying the ribbing took a lot of stretching and made me wonder if I my 80% was enough. But it did confirm my reaction to Peggy Saggers recommendation of 75%.  I had immediately thought no way!  No way 75% was a good recommendation for all fabrics. Perhaps I have a wider definition of ‘ribbing’ which would be why my experience supports another formula i.e 80% instead of 75%.

The armscye finish did control most of the gaping but didn’t help with the swags; and surprisingly, this interlock fits way too tight when compared with the previous which admittedly was a little snug. At least you couldn’t count the rolls. It just goes to prove the same type fabric, even with the same stretch factor will not necessarily drape the same way on the body. As home dressmakers, we are always making originals even when using our TNT’s.

I need to step back and reconsider, yet again, my fitting procedure. It’s unlikely that my figure is going to improve.  I’m not willing to change my diet. I’m not willing to endure the pain of extreme exercise. I’m at a good place in my life. Basically happy and not intent on making changes. No big goals. Just living every day to its fullest. I do know clearly how I would like my clothes to fig. I’m also reasonable. I don’t expect to look like any of the K@rd@si@ns. So for now, I’m taking a break not only from this pattern but from fitting in general. I’m going to work on my Spring 6PAC using the 25 patterns which satisfactorily  fit me. I’ll be returning to this type pattern, if not exactly this one, because I still want a basic knit, sleeveless top pattern in my TNT’s.

Interlock 2

I’m tweaking the fit of Ottobre Design Style  #1, 2/2007.  I increased the shoulder slope 1/4″ accompanied by lowering the armscye 1/4″.  I used self fabric for neckline ribbing and for binding the armscyes.

Still have some issues. Including that the back and bust look too tight while at the same time, the underarm is not snug to my  body.

I think I’m going to concentrate on correcting the shoulder slope.  I’m using up my odd interlock cuts, mostly remnants from T shirt projects. They make fine camisoles for the winter and yes if this is the only thing clean on a hot day I will wear it in public.

I probably should have known 1/4″ was not enough. It simply hasn’t been enough with Connie Crawford, Loes Hinse and Burda patterns. Why did I think it would be enough for Otto?

I fired up the embroidery machine using an old free Bernina design.  I think this was supposed to be cut work.

I copied the single design and mirrored it making the much larger design above. Not until I broke 2 needles did I remember that someone had said they thought it contained an error. I finished the embroidery by skipping the last color and completing a couple of small satin stitch areas on the Dream.

Interlock version of Otto Tank

I used to love the Otto Tank (#01 in issue 2007/02).  It’s not quite what I envision when hearing the word ‘tank’ but it is a very good summer top.  It offers enough coverage so that underwear will not show yet  is skimpy enough for the occasional triple digit temperatures we get in South Dakota. I think refining this pattern now while it can be used as an undergarment is a good idea.

Although the pattern calls for rayon knit, I’m using a cotton interlock. I know the two fabrics will not act exactly the same. I’m hoping that the end result will be close enough that only minor tweaking is needed when I change fabrics. Truth is, I was looking for a test fabric and this white interlock is just the right amount and age. Ok, well aged. And, this fabric I will model where as the nylon knit previously used was far too revealing.  I cut the front and back on fold adding 2″ length at the hem. I also  cut three 1.75″ crosswise strips to be used as ribbing.

I decided to add an embroidery using my 2016 Spring colors. Just because it is boring to make the same garment over and over. Yet that’s what you need to do. Or I need to do. I need to know how the pattern will work with various fabrics and finishes especially after I tweak said pattern for my bodily flaws unique body shape.

This was really quick to sew together. I serged the armscyes and then basted in the neck binding. Once I was sure it was correct, I serged the neck and armscye bindings before serging the side seams. Pictures below were taken before I used a 3-thread serger stitch to finish the hem edge.

I had altered the pattern to achieve Zero ease i.e. the pattern measurements equal my own. I wasn’t delighted to see my rolls, but not particularly surprised. I was most curious about the shoulder slope as I’ve not made any correction. The shoulder straps are so narrow, I wasn’t sure how much or even if I should try to introduce a slope.

The side view tells me I really should. I should increase the shoulder slope and move the armscye  because I’m seeing multiple side-swags.

The other thing I’m seeing is that the armscye bindings make the shoulders too wide.  I need to either wrap the armscye thereby not adding any more width or trim the armscyes even deeper–deep enough to offset the width of the binding.  I do see that the front hem is doing its normal rising. Again something that I have made no effort to correct but will not.

So it’s not the perfect summer top but I can tell you when the temps get high enough, if this is the only thing clean, I will be wearing it in public. For now, it’s good enough to be a camisole.


Tank as Camisole

I’m eager to start using my Otto patterns again.  They too need to be refit because of my changed shoulder slope and of course the asymmetrical thingy.  I also still need camisoles. 5 is good but still short of my ideal 8. I chose to work with 2/2007 #1, a tank top  pattern for rayon jersey. Far to cold for me to be wearing tanks but I could work on the fit now if I wore the resulting garment as a camisole.

Fitting has become a much longer process. First I compare the given measurements of the body to mine and selected size 46. Otto provides a lot more measurements. Which is a relief, I knew without a doubt I needed to make a 1.75″ back waist length adjustment (BWL) instead of my standard 1″.   I then measured the pattern across the bust, waist and hips. To my surprise, this pattern has  negative ease .  From the pic in the magazine (above) I did not suspect negative ease! I rarely like to wear negative ease.  My ideal silhouette skims not hugs the curves. So I added 1/2″ at the pattern side to bring it up to ZERO ease and then 1/4″ all around for seam allowances.

I did not add embroidery or other embellishment. Well, outside the shell hemming on neckline, armscyes and hem.

I love the shell hem. It’s so easy.  I do serge the raw edges first which helps me turn the edge a consistent 1/4″

This is one of those garments I’m unlikely to ‘model’ for you. It is a nylon tricot knit. Standard fabric for slips and camisoles but kind of transparent.   I was really anxious about the fit and have already worn the cami. Nylon tricot has a more stretch than rayon jersey so I expected it to be comfortable. I did not expect the ease I experienced. I added ease to the pattern to bring the final garment up to ZERO ease.  On the pattern I trimmed 1/2″ off the front underarm and 1/4″ at CF. Both are wedge trims which taper to nothing a few inches down.  That’s all the changes I will make for a camisole.

For a tank top, I’ll need to consider a few other things.

  • I’m still not sure that the ease is correct.
  • I’m hoping that the depth of the armscye changes when using the recommended rayon jersey because it is far too deep for a wearable tank top. Maybe adding binding to fill in??
  • I want another 2″ length to wear in public. Maybe more if I’m altering the length of the straps.
  • I made no allowances for shoulder slope or length.  That will have to be addressed for a public garment.

Tanking the Otto Tank Top

My desire to have more of a “tank” top coincided when my desire to reduce the number of Under 2’s in my stash. So I pulled out a lovely knit purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics intending to pursue altering the pattern  into a tank. The fabric is a crinkle cotton. I think the crinkle has been stabilized by a line of elastic sewn to the reverse side.  It’s an interesting fabric that was easy to work with as well.

So at my age, you don’t go bra-less.  If you do, people see your nip ples around knee level.  Bad bra? Nip ples appear around the belly button.  I keep the girls where they belong by regularly buying and wearing new bras (although I do mess up from time to time.) That means that even a tank pattern, needs to be bra-friendly. I rotary cut a copy of the existing pattern from fresh tracing paper to work with. I think the neckline width is pretty good so I measured 1.5″ from the shoulder point and made a mark. Using my curved ruler, I drew the armscye from the new point back down to the curve of the underarm.  I did not lower the underarm.  Sheesh, it took 2 versions to get it bra-friendly.  I’m not ruining it now.

For me, the wonderful thing about TNT’s is that I can put my time into embellishments.  So this Tank version isn’t quite a TNT, but it’s close enough that I felt like having a little fun.  I went through my collection of graphics and found an interesting feather.  I wish I could give credit for this but I saved the file with only date and time.  There were 4 in the pic.  I cropped to 1 feather and then imported into my Cameo Silhouette Studio program.  I converted it to a cutting file, resized, repeated, mirrored and arranged.  I spent at least an hour developing a design I wanted to use.

Silver stars and nails were added just before sewing was complete.

Then because it became a large design (12X18″) I moved the Cameo from its shelf in the computer room to the kitchen table.  Previously I’ve ironed two layers of freezer paper together and put that into the Cameo for cutting on its shelf.  That does work but not perfectly.  There will be bubbles (no matter how hard I try to press evenly) between the two layers. When the Cameo cuts, the bubbles won’t cut cleanly.  That won’t do for this design. It has to cut very well because it has lots of small dots and dashes and paisleys and stuff-that-needs-to-be-cut. On the shelf, the work receives minimal support. This would be fine if I could also use the mat.  The length of mat needed, will not feed smoothly through during cutting. It bounces when it reaches the wall.  At the table, this isn’t an issue.  Since I was using the table, I could also use a mat and I only needed 1 layer of freezer paper.

But at the table I couldn’t connect the computer to the Cameo.  I had the learning experience of transferring my design to SD card complicated by the fact my computer is not accessing its built-in SD-reader. I must use a USB adapter. The first USB adapter I tried was broken. How the heck do these things break? It would show up in File Explorer but then the computer couldn’t do a file copy.  Eventually I changed readers. Another problem solved. Another appears.  I haven’t previously  transferred files to the Cameo using the SD card.  I’d read about it — and forgotten the instructions. So I diddled at the Cameo for 15 minutes before I was able to figure out the menu selections I needed to load the file. Another problem solved  …

and another appears.  The cameo wouldn’t cut the freezer paper. 3 sheets of freezer paper later and I know to set the blade to a depth of 2.5. I learned that after running back to the computer changing software settings ; downloading the file; and cutting at the Cameo several times. I think I’ve got the procedure down, now.  I love technology. To be truthful, I love this kind of plinking around convincing devices  to do what I want.

Down to the sewing room with my stencil.  I spread out my fabric and placed my altered pattern on top.  I chalked the outline of my pattern pieces upon the fabric then cut out around the intended front allowing a good 4″ margin all around.  I trimmed the  stencil, still leaving a nice margin and sprayed the shiny side with stencil glue before carefully placing the stencil on the upper bodice.  I smoothed it into place; dug out my white textile paint and a dabber.  Painting took less then 5 minutes. Sheesh, all that work for 5 minutes of daubing up and down with a teaspoon of white paint.  After clean up at the sink (I love acrylic paints) I removed the stencil from the fabric.  Last time I stenciled, I left the stencil on while the paint dried. I also had a bit of a problem placing my stencil that time. I had sprayed it twice with glue after having tried to iron it into place.  I still have bits of freezer paper on that project.  Not wanting to repeat that experience, I carefully pulled the stencil away now before the paint was thoroughly dry.  The design was beautiful.  But a little flat looking. I had glitter handy. Not something I buy regularly. This came with some purchases made during the last Nebraska Junk Jaunt. I sprinkled glitter lightly over the paint. Then left all to dry.

The next day, I placed my pattern back on the fabric and cut the pieces for my new tank top.  I taped the neckline back and front, the shoulder and the armscyes.  Usually I tape the front neckline and back shoulders. But this was all so skinny I was afraid it would stretch if allowed to dangle without support.  Before beginning construction, I cut strips 1.75, 1.5 and 1.25″ strips from the fabric. Using white Stretchy Max I roll hemmed one side. Then I serged shoulders together and finished the hems, armscyes and neckline using the type A, Up and over binding.

There is no real change it the fit. It’s all design details and whatever the fabric does.

Fit is fine, I’d say I can make the neckline wider and maybe the shoulder a little more exposed. But you know, I think It’s a great summer style.

Otto Tank

I felt that I had made a major change to fit with the first iteration of this pattern, otto 2/2207 #1.  I transferred the change to the pattern, a 1/2″ tuck in the armscye both front and back.  Then I fused non-woven interfacing to the backs of both pieces.  I chose my fabric, a rayon knit with  horizontal stripes., I decided to make full patterns instead of half.  I can waste a lot of time trying to fold fabric in half and align for stripes or plaids. I decided several years ago when faced with either of these types of fabrics, just to make a full pattern.  It makes it so easy align designs.

Typically I can place the armscye points across from each other on the same stripe and be safe.  After cutting the fabrics I also cut 3/4″ width-wise stripes.; carefully trimming to highlight the narrow dark stripe.


I scooped the neckline and trimmed 1/4″ from the shoulder.  I’m still not sure the Pattern Cutting  Made Easy book is right about the ease, but I do know that necklines will gape if I don’t do something to stop it.  I immediately taped the front neckline and the back shoulders.  I curved the hem and finished it with the easy up and over binding (like a type A binder produces) along the hem. I serged the binding to the backside then folded it and over and stitched it in place on the front side.  I left a 1/8″ raw edge which I’m hoping will curl into place. and be lovely.  I used the same finish on the neckline and armscyes after the shoulder seams were serged.



Fit wise, I have no serious complaints.  The armscyes are a little loose right now which I’m attributing to all the handling.




Although from the side, it’s obvious I’m becoming more like Humpty Dumpty with every passing year.


That was an old bra.  Maybe I should throw it away.


I like this, as is but it doesn’t say tank top to me.  I expect a narrower shoulder and deeper front and back neckline as well as a little more shaping. Additional shaping is going to be hard to achieve. Let’s face, all Humpty Dumpties are basically round or convex across the middle instead of indented. I’ll be keeping this pattern, cause I like it too but I plan to copy it and make refines that will say TANK TOP.

Sleeveless Otto 5/2014 #5

The Woven T gone sleeveless Version 2, is I, think a success!

No more bra-peepage and the garment is still comfortable to wear.  This is a light weight cotton/poly. It has some body but not nearly as stiff as yesterdays.  I made a slight V neck and instead of facings finished all with bias tape.

In retrospect, a facing would have been faster. Oh bias tape works. I even have beautifully stitched, multiple lines of top stitching.

I love the crispness added by edge stitching. I really should do this more often. It does impart a professional finish as well as nailing the bias tape into place.

Picture of the back didn’t turn out — I moved. You’ll have to accept my word for it. The back hangs instead of bunching. Fabric. It’s all in the fabric. I am considering shifting just a bit of ease from front to back hip and perhaps adding a wedge which will lengthen the front. I’m surprised that the diagonal side lines exist.  I thought they indicated a bust dart was needed. My bust dart is both in the right place and the right width.  I think the diagonals are saying more room in the rear please.

I stitched this together at high speed. Did not take time for a single fitting. I did make a new template which raises the armscye 1/2″ instead of the 1/4″ of the first version. Also the V neck has less depth than the scoop neck of yesterday. So it was not necessary to trim 1/4″ from the shoulder and stabilizing was limited to stay stitching the V of the neck.

I have to confess that sometimes this is the kind of sewing I like best. I picked a pretty fabric, cut it out and stitched together within 2 hours. No fitting, all machine stitching and finishing contribute greatly to reducing the amount of time involved.

I’m ready to whip up my next TNT: the Otto Tank Top 2/2007 #1.

Woven T Going Sleeveless

Usually I try to fit basic garments T, shell, sleeveless shell, trousers and then fit them for both woven and knit fabrics. It takes at least 2 attempts for each and makes it a long process when I have to refit basics. This time I decided to take Otto’s Woven T 2/2014 #5 and using Pattern Cutting Made Easy convert it to a sleeveless, woven top.

Actually the book starts with a sleeveless, close-fitting block  and converts to sleeves. So I was working backwards.  Using my already traced pattern, I created a template with a raised armscye of 1/4″.  I also felt like there was too much ease across the entire front. I trimmed a scant 1/8″ from the CF. Because I scooped the front neck, I also trimmed a 1/4″ wedge from the shoulder.  The book explains that additional ease is often incorporated in the upper bodice which is not needed with a lower neckline.  I’m not sure about that. I also know that when you scoop you start introducing more bias edges into your work. Bias will stretch.  Before sewing a single stitch, I stabilized the front neck with fusible tape.

I selected a 100% cotton homespun with a neat geometric design. I didn’t have a full yard and needed to make adjustments in order to use it.  I added a center back seam and instead of laying all my pieces in the same direction, I placed them head to head. That way there was plenty of width at each cut edge for the bottom of the garment while the shoulders shared the space.  I did make an effort to match stripes.  This is a wavy pattern and my matching came out really good.

Here’s an interesting point The fabrics I’ve used previously with this pattern were softer, had less body.  This fabric is firmer but not really stiff. Nonetheless, it wants to bunch in the mid-back. The other fabrics did not or at least, not noticeably.

Armscyes and neckline were finished with bias tape.  It’s a finish I love despite the fact that it often makes these edges lie a bit differently. In the back photo, my neckline is practically standing up.

I stitched bust darts and shoulders together than basted the sides and tried on my garment. I could tell then that the armscye was still just a 1/4″ too low. My bra was peeking out. It’s not that noticeable in the pic because I don’t wear white bras only shades of tan.  Still I don’t like my bra showing and will need to repeat this exercise.

I can be fit (Otto 2/2007 Style 1)


Tired of futzing with PP108, I returned to my faithful Ottobre Design Magazine.  I think Otto is not more popular because of its fabric selections. Whereas Burda photos in weird positions and dark colors, Otto chooses fabrics from the late 50’s.  They must have a warehouse someplace. Honestly, I look at the fabrics and think ugly, ugly, ugly.  Also while they use real people as models, why can’t Otto help with makeup and pose. That’s what those million dollar babe’s do. Yeah, they get paid $1mil because they need to pay for their entourage which includes makeup artists.  And it’s the photographers that say turn this way, give me that face yada yada. A good photographer gets good photographs because he/she/it stages the shoot and directs the model. I’m quite certain those Otto everyday-models, would look as great as the million dollar babes, if someone was in their corner directing their every move.  But I digress. My point is that Otto has excellent fitting patterns but it’s hard to tell from the photographs.

This is Otto issue 2/2007 Style 1 Tank Top.  In the magazine it looks more like a de facto tank top.  It look more like a sleeveless knit top on me because of tracing and fitting decisions.  Up to my using pattern 2/2014 #5, I had been getting excellent fit from Otto by tracing multiple sizes. I remeasured my self for that pattern and decided to trace a straight 46.  I measured the hip for 2/2007 #1 and decided that this pattern has negative ease. I like negative ease. Especially in rib knits.  The rib stretches over my bust making me appear to actually have both a bust and waist. However negative ease across the hips causes the garment to slowly work its way upward until all the lower coverage is bunched up around my waist. So I chose to trace a size 48. According to the measurements of the pattern, a 48 would give me 1.5″ ease in the hips and 2″ across the bust.

I haven’t grown any taller and still need both my NSA and BWL. I added the BWL above the waist. But couldn’t figure out how to do the NSA.  The shoulder is already 2″ wide. Applying a 1″ NSA was going to just about do away with the shoulder. I didn’t want spaghetti straps or strapless. So, I worried about the effect of the NSA. Then I worried about having measured correctly.  I added 1/4″ SA to the shoulders and armscye. Increase the hem from 1″ to 1.25″ just because 1.25″ is my personal standard hem depth. Then added 1″ SA to the side seams. I cut the fabric;   basted shoulder and side seams at the planned stitching line….

and tried it on for fit.  My fabric is a rayon knit. So very thin and somewhat stretchy. (Like 25% stretch). I wasn’t sure what to expect and was pleasantly surprised at the first fitting. I had applied my BWL between bust and waist. That adjustment needed to be there. It brought the waist and hip shaping in alignment with my body. But I also need to shorten this pattern between shoulder and bust.  This happens frequently but not every time. It’s not a standard adjustment for me but something I do look for. I did notice when tracing multiple sizes that the shoulder to bust distance was shorter but not by this much.  Since the fabric was cut, I  increased the shoulder seam to 1.25″. Then I looked at the underarm. As expected there was a little too much ease across my bust which caused gaping at the side seam under the arm.  I increased the side seam 1/4″ but in a wedge, like a dart where the wide part is at the underarm and the point is 3″ down on the side seam. That’s it 2 adjustments. Both easy and one 1 very small.

I’m using an up and over binding. I’m pleased with the neckline. Ok with the armscyes. I usually stretch the binding around the curves just a titch. I think I stretched 2 titches instead of one. Still not bad. May even stretch out and hang beautifully during wear.

Today’s jersey knits are so thin, they have become difficult to sew.  I used my straight stitch foot and a spyder at the beginning of straight stitch seaming.  The serger handled this fabric beautifully without even changing the size 12 needles. (Which is a good thing because I can hardly find a size smaller in an ELX705 needle).  The CS wanted gather. Instead of adjusting settings, I cut 1.5″ strips of stabilizer and fed it beneath the hem. I used the heat-away stuff — just to try something different.

Well actually I’ve had this roll for a while and seldom use it.  I decided to use it just to get rid of it. I’m not entirely sold on this heat away stuff. In fact, this time I am displeased.  The sticky WSS I used on the last top held the fabric. Absolutely nailed it in place.  This heat-away would grab the fabric but still allow it to move.  Going over steams required careful navigation. That would have been OK except I spent an hour trying to melt away the stabilizer, instead it has melted into the fabric.

It’s possible that this garment is ruined. I’m wearing it today to check fit and see what happens when it goes through the laundry.  I may throw this cr@p in the trash.

But back to fit, which I’m excited to share. Two tiny adjustments and the front is near perfect.

I expect a little pulling at the armscyes or bust because that’s what happens to me if I buy RTW. There is none.

The back is not quite as good.  I think I may have shortened the shoulders too much. It looks to me like the armscye is cutting back under the arm too soon. I know there is sufficient ease. It’s the hemming causing the bunching. Before the hem, the back hung perfectly. Even with this light weight knit, the back just hung straight. I turned the iron up to max heat trying to melt the stabilizer. I think it may have shrunk the fabric. It certainly did make little puckers where the stabilizer melted and clings together. Well this was a good fabric to try this out. In person, I really don’t like the colors.  The light color is a greenish khaki (bad color for me). the green is a dark olive and the bright blue is not the best shade for me. When I wear the right shade of blue, my eyes practically pop out of my head.  All you can notice is my eyes because they become so brilliant.

So where am I going with this pattern?  I have several knit remnants (and a few I bought on purpose) that I want to make into tank tops.  Because of my fitting adjustments, this isn’t really a tank top, IMHO.  I’ll transfer the adjustments to the pattern. I’ll shorten the shoulder to bust length only 1/2″. Then I’ll  make one more just like this one without using the melt-away/heat-away stabilizer. That will tell me how the pattern with alterations really fits and how much the stabilizer really messed up. Then I’ll be adjusting the width of the shoulder and that whole armscye area, trying to develop a true tank top.  Each version will be quick to make. Time elapses between versions because  I like to wear a garment all-day, at least once before decided what adjustments need to be made. Sort of like denim jeans. You fit jeans for how they will feel after 3 hours of wear. Usually that means so tight you have to lay down on the bed to put them on in the morning. As the day goes along, the denim softens, stretches and the true shape/fit emerges.  It’s a phenomena that is most apparent in denim but occurs to a lesser degree with all fabrics.

For now, I’m just happy to have this pattern. I found something that fit with only minor tweaking in the fit stage. That’s what I want in a pattern.

Uncommon Abbreviations

I use some of the same terms over and over but they aren’t common to the general public and may not be readily understood by every sewist.  I’ve been following common courtesy by spelling out the first instance accompanied with abbreviation and then using the abbreviation when needed subsequently i.e. Water Soluble Thread (WST) the first time then just WST.  Frankly, I know I’m lazy. I also tire of writing out these terms over and over. Yet I know that very people have read my every post and few of them are likely to understand all my abbreviations. But I’m still lazy.  I’ve opted for what I hope is an acceptable substitute. I’ve created a page on my base blog  titled “uncommon abbreviations” and I will link my abbreviations to that page. Granted the reader will have to scroll down that list to find my definition which could be a bit inconvenient for them. I apologize for that and the fact I am slightly lazy. But I’ve learned I can’t please everyone. So it’s most important that I’m satisfied with myself.

Uncommon Abbreviations